Receptury „auf Polnische Art” z XVI i XVII wieku. Przyczynek do studiów nad recepcją kuchni staropolskiej w niemieckiej literaturze kulinarnej
„Auf Polnische Art” recipes from the 16th and 17th century. Contribution to studies on the receptrion of old Polish cuisine in German cuisine literature
Die Rezeptur „auf Polnische Art” aus dem 16.- und 17. Jh. Die Studien zur Rezeption der altpolnischen Küche in der deutschen kulinarischen Literatur
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The article relates to the history and culture of German cookery books in the 16th and 17th century as well as the methods of analyzing the recipes that are provided with geographical labels. The article aims at introducing selected recipes which in the old German culture used to build the representation of Polish cuisine. It was shown that the analysis of foreign recipes may constitute a valuable commentary to the discourse on the subject of Polish cuisine’s character, on the basis of a few recipes provided with the name „auf Polnische Art”. The recipes describing the dishes from foreign cuisines, provided with geographical labels, apply a certain convention. Historian is able to investigate whether from the narration of a culinary recipe, there arises a coherent image relating to the taste and culinary aesthetics attributed to a certain group (in this case the Poles). The recipes for dishes prepared in “Polish way”, represented by Pike in Polish sauce, had been appearing in German culinary literature from the 16th century, first in manuscript collections, subsequently in numerous printed cookery books. They are the testimony of a coherent image of Polish cuisine. Pike in Polish sauce is cooked with the addition of saffron, lemons, vinegar, wine and spices. In the identical (or similar) way it is represented both in German literature and later first Polish cookery book. It is the wealth of German culinary literature that encourages to undertake further and planned on a larger scale research in that scope. Whereas in the Republic of Poland before 1700, there was only one cookery book published, on German publishing market there appeared 56 firstprintings. On the basis of the recipes from Stanislaus Prasmofski’s cookery book, published in Nuernberg in 1671, the dishes labelled as „Polish” were compared to the „French”, „Hungarian” and „Spanish” ones, indicating a clear difference between French dishes, in which it was very unique to use, used before, exotic spices (saffron, muscat flower, cloves, ginger) and Polish and Hungarian dishes, in which sweet, sour and pepper flavors were intensively mixed with the addition of spices, sugar and citrus fruits. Apart from cookery books, it also were calendars where one could find old recipes considering Polish cuisine. The analysis of ingredients, culinary techniques, recipes’ titles and comments with which recipes were provided, enables not only linguist but also historian to treat recipe and cookery literature as the source of exploring the processes considering flavor, social relations or imaginations about others.
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