Full-text resources of CEJSH and other databases are now available in the new Library of Science.
Visit https://bibliotekanauki.pl

PL EN


2013 | 57 | 4 | 83-100

Article title

Poor Chic. Estetyka Ubóstwa W Modzie Epoki Postindustrialnej

Title variants

Languages of publication

EN

Abstracts

EN
Fashion embodies the paradoxes of the contemporary world; its relations with poverty have been fairly perplexing for a long time. The author considers haute couture’s romance with the aesthetics of poverty since the emergence ofmodern capitalist society. She devotes particular attention to the period at the turn of the 20th to 21st centuries, when major social, economic, and cultural transformations brought changes to the fashion world. The first aim of the article is to show fashion’s aesthetic revolution, which was initiated by avant-garde designers in the 1980s and 1990s. Its second is to describe the structural changes that led to a blurring of categories in the fashion system over the past two decades. And its final, most important aim is to present fashion’s popular aesthetic of poverty and to interpret the significance of ‘poor chic’ in contemporary post-industrial society.

Year

Volume

57

Issue

4

Pages

83-100

Physical description

Dates

published
2013-12-01
online
2014-06-13

Contributors

  • Uniwersytet Adama Mickiewicza w Poznaniu

References

  • Agins Teri, 1999, The End of Fashion: How Marketing Changed the Clothing Business Forever, HarperCollins Publishers, New York.
  • Blumer Herbert, 1969, Fashion: From Class Differentiation to Collective Selection, „The Sociological Quarterly”, t. 10, s. 275-291.
  • Bourdieu Pierre, 2006, Dystynkcja. Społeczna krytyka władzy sądzenia, tłum. Piotr Biłos, Scholar, Warszawa.
  • Brzozowska-Brywczyńska Maja, 2010, Poor chic. Gentryfikacja (koniecznej) prowizorki, w: Marek Krajewski (red.), Handmade. Praca rąk w postindustrialnej rzeczywistości, Fundacja Nowej Kultury Bęc Zmiana, Warszawa.
  • Crane Diana, 1999, Diffusion Models and Fashion: A Reassessment, „The Annals of the American Academy of Political and Social Science”, t. 566, nr 1, s. 13-24.
  • Danziger Pamela, 2005, Let Them Eat Cake: Marketing Luxury to the Masses as Well as the Classes, Dearborn Trade Publishing, Chicago.
  • Davis Fred, 1992, Fashion, Culture, and Identity, The University of Chicago Press, Chicago.
  • Diawara Manthia, 1998, In Search of Africa, Harvard University Press, Cambridge.
  • Dowd Maureen, 2000, Liberties; Haute Homeless, „The New York Times”, 23 stycznia.
  • Givhan Robin, 1999, Rapper Attitude in Designer Diamonds and Furs: Ghetto Fabulous Goes Global, „The New York Times”, 9 października.
  • Givhan Robin, 2000, ‘Ghetto fabulous’ Glitter Fades, „The New York Times”, 14 października.
  • Halnon Karen Bettez, 2002, Poor Chic: The Rational Consumption of Poverty, „Current Sociology”, t. 50, s. 501-516.
  • Halnon Karen Bettez, 2009, Heroin Chic, Poor Chic, and Beyond Deconstructionist Distraction, „Consumers, Commodities & Consumption. A Newsletter of The Consumer Studies Research Network”, t. 11, nr 1.
  • Harold Christine, 1999, Tracking Heroin Chic: The Abject Body Reconfigures the Rational Argument, „Argumentation & Advocacy”, t. 36, 2 (cz. 2).
  • Harris Daniel, 2001, Cute, Quaint, Hungry and Romantic: The Aesthetics of Consumerism, Da Capo Press, Cambridge.
  • Heath Joseph, Potter Andrew, 2004, Nation of Rebels: Why Counterculture Became Consumer Culture, Harper Collins, New York.
  • Hines Tony, Bruce Margaret, 2007, Fashion Marketing: Contemporary Issues, Elsevier Ltd., Oxford.
  • Kawamura Yuniya, 2005, Fashion-ology: An Introduction to Fashion Studies, Berg, Oxford-New York.
  • Konig Rene, 1979, Potęga i urok mody, tłum. Janina Szymańska, Wydawnictwa Artystyczne i Filmowe, Warszawa.
  • La Ferla Ruth, 2005, Mary-Kate, Fashion Star, „The New York Times”, 6 marca.
  • Lipovetsky Giles, 1994, The Empire of Fashion: Dressing Modern Democracy, Princeton University Press, Princeton-Oxford.
  • McCracken Grant, 1989, Who Is the Celebrity Endorser? Cultural Foundation of the Endorsement Process, „Journal of Consumer Research”, t. 16.
  • McCracken Grant, 2011, Fashion System, w: The Fashion Reader, LindaWelters, Abby Lillthun (red.), Berg, Oxford-New York (wyd. 2).
  • Marin Rick, 1992, Grunge: A Success Story, „The New York Times”, 15 listopada.
  • Mendes Valerie, de la Haye Amy, 1999, Twentieth Century Fashion, Thames & Hudson, London.
  • Menkes Suzy, 2000, Galliano’s Hobo Couture Takes On the Old Masters: Deconstructing Dior, „The New York Times”, 18 stycznia.
  • Okonkwo Uche, 2007, Luxury Fashion Branding: Trends, Tactics, Techniques, Palgrave MacMillan, New York.
  • Polhemus Ted, 2011a, Fashion and Anti-Fashion: Exploring Adornment and Dress from an Anthropological Perspective, Lulu.
  • Polhemus Ted, 2011b, Trickle Down, Bubble, w: The Fashion Reader, Linda Welters, Abby Littlethun (red.), Berg, Oxford-New York (wyd. 2).
  • Raciniewska Alicja, 2013, Luksus w czasie kryzysu, „Kultura Wspołczesna”, nr 4.
  • Silverstein Michael J., Fiske Neil, 2005, Trading Up: Why Consumers Want New Luxury Goods and How Companies Create Them, Portfolio, London.
  • Silverstein Michael J., Fiske Neil, 2008, Trading Up: Why Consumers Want New Luxury Goods - And How Companies Create Them, The Penguin Group, London.
  • Simmel Georg, 1957, Fashion, „The American Journal of Sociology”, t. 62, s. 541-558.[Crossref]
  • Spencer Herbert, 1966 [1896], The Principles of Sociology, t. 2, D. Aooleton & Co, New York.
  • Thomas Dana, 2010, Luksus. Dlaczego stracił blask, tłum. Elżbieta McIver, Muza, Warszawa. Tonnies Ferdynand, 1988, Wspolnota i stowarzyszenie, tłum. Małgorzata Łukasiewicz, Państwowe Wydawnictwo Naukowe, Warszawa.
  • Tungate Mark, 2009, Luxury World: The Past, Present and Future of Luxury Brands, Kogan Page, Philadelphia.
  • Veblen Thorstein, 2008, Teoria klasy prożniaczej, tłum. Janina Frenzel-Zagorska, Muza, Warszawa.
  • Vejlgaard Henrik, 2008, Anatomia trendu, tłum. Dorota Wąsik, Wolters Kluwer, Warszawa.
  • Vinken Barbara, 2005, Fashion Zeitgeist: Trends and Cycles in the Fashion System, Berg, Oxford-New York.
  • Watson Shane, 2006, The Way We Dress Now, „The Sunday Times Style”, 17 września.
  • Weinbach Jon, 2007, In West L.A., A Homeless Man Inspires New Brand, „The Wall Street Journal”, 14 listopada.
  • Wilbekin Emil, 1999, Great Aspirations: Hip Hop and Fashion Dress for Excess and Success, w: Alan Light (red.), The Vibe History of Hip Hop, Plexus, London.
  • Wilson Elizabeth, 2003, Adorned in Dreams: Fashion and Modernity, Rutgers University Press, New Brunswick-New Jersey.

Document Type

Publication order reference

Identifiers

YADDA identifier

bwmeta1.element.doi-10_2478_kultura-2014-0005
JavaScript is turned off in your web browser. Turn it on to take full advantage of this site, then refresh the page.