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La mode féminine de la seconde moitié du XIXe siècle dans la caricature iconographique et littéraire

100%
Stępińska-Kucza Z.
Quêtes littéraires
|
2020
|
issue 10
EN
The present paper analyzes the relationship between the caricature and the women’s fashion of the second half of the 19th century. The period was favorable for fashion caricature, because, while reflecting the political, economic and social transformations of the time, the clothing trends endorsed at the time by fashion magazines were based on the exaggeration and distortion that we identify among the weapons of humorists. The first part of the paper focuses on the graphical representation of fashion, in particular of the crinoline, and aims to discover the messages hidden in those illustrations. The second part analyzes the motif of the fashion and the clothing in the Bertall’s satirical text, Comédie de notre temps, and tries to define the image of the woman at that time and her role in the French bourgeois society.
FR
L’article analyse la relation entre la caricature et la mode à partir de quelques exemples de la satire visuelle et textuelle de la seconde moitié du XIXe siècle. La période est propice à la caricature de mode car, tout en reflétant les transformations politiques, économiques et sociales du temps, les tendances vestimentaires prônées à l'époque par les périodiques de mode reposent sur l'exagération et la déformation, qualités qui sont aussi les armes des humoristes. La première partie examine la représentation graphique du costume féminin, avant tout celle de la crinoline-cage, et les significations véhiculées par ces images railleuses. La seconde se concentre sur les fragments de La Comédie de notre temps (1874-1876) de Bertall, consacrés à la mode et au vêtement, et cherche à définir l'image de la femme et sa place dans la société bourgeoise en pleine mutation.
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« “Nous sommes biches” par vocation ». Vocation (?) d’une demi-mondaine d’après les mémoires de Céleste Mogador, de Cora Pearl et de Rigolboche

100%
Stępińska-Kucza Z.
Cahiers ERTA
|
2023
|
issue 35
27-44
EN
The present paper aims to explore the topic of the vocation of a courtesan in the 19th-century France, by analyzing memoirs of tree demi-mondaines of the time: Céleste Mogador, Cora Pearl and Rigolboche. Does such a vocation exist ? If yes, how can we define this notion? The first part tries to show that prostitution isn’t chosen by women because of the their inclination to debauchery, but is the result of the failed education and parental abandonment. The second part focuses on the importance of independence in the courtesan’s life, as a part of their vocation, and the manner to gain it.
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