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EN
Social consumption and related phenomena can be seen in a variety of ways. The purchase of a particular good, such as clothing, can be read as a result of a fashion undertaking, a manifestation of social status, or activities to build a human identity. The article has a theoretical and empirical nature and refers to the issue of constructing one’s own identity by consuming fashion. It is an introductory element of the problem of consumer behavior in the sphere of clothing. The publication highlights the fact that individuals are definitely more involved now in creating their identity than they used to be. The first part of the article has the nature of sociological considerations and serves to find the paradigms most strongly associated with the construction of identity through consumption, in particular, fashion consumption. It also provides an overview of the most important sociological theories, both those created in the past and quite contemporary. In the second part, it refers to the results of qualitative research related to identity creation through fashion consumption.
EN
The paper addresses the issues of fashion and trends in consumer behaviour that refer to building a marketing strategy based on a changing system of values in modern societies, which, in a sense, is also created by marketing activities referring to socially responsible products and services. E t h i c a l F a s h i o n will serve as an example. The paper also contains discussion on the functioning of the term fashion as a quite short-lived phenomenon versus the term trend, which is treated here as a phenomenon that is developing, growing and lasts longer in increasingly broader consumer groups.
PL
W artykule zbadano rolę konsumpcji (szczególnie mody) w życiu młodych ludzi, zwracając szczególną uwagę na proces formowania i podtrzymywania jaźni. Rozważano podwójny model konsumpcji: jako ekspresji Ja (konsumpcja indywidualistyczna) i jako system znaczeń umożliwiający podtrzymywanie więzi ze społecznymi plemionami (konsumpcja plemienna). Zaprezentowano wyniki badań mieszkańców Wrocławia dotyczące postaw i orientacji zakupowych. Materiał badawczy stanowiły 363 wywiady kwestionariuszowe. Odkryto, iż młodzi ludzie (w wieku 18-25 lat) byli bardziej skłonni do „wyróżniania się” przez konsumpcję niż starsi konsumenci, a jednocześnie angażowali się w konsumpcję naśladowczą. Akceptowali także ekspresywne i „zabawowe” funkcje ubrań i mody. Praktyczne implikacje badania nawiązują do dwóch typów strategii marketingowych: marketingu relacji i marketingu plemiennego. Co więcej, wskazuje się na konieczność przemyślenia społecznych konsekwencji utowarowionej kultury wobec młodzieży.
EN
In their article, the authors examined the role of consumption (particularly that of fashion) in the life of young people, paying a particular attention to the process of personality formation and self-sustaining. They considered the dual model of consumption: as self-expression (individualistic consumption) and as a system of meanings enabling sustaining ties with social tribes (tribal consumption). There were presented results of surveys carried out among Wroclaw inhabitants concerning their shopping attitudes and orientations. The research material was constituted by 363 questionnaire-based surveys. The authors revealed that young people (aged 18-25 years) were more likely to “be distinguished” by consumption than elder consumers and, at the same time, they were involved in imitative consumption. They also accepted the expressive and “playful” functions of apparels and fashion. The practical implications of the research refer to the two types of marketing strategies: marketing of relationships and tribal marketing. What’s more, the authors indicate the necessity to consider the social consequences of “merchandised” culture towards the youth.
RU
В статье исследовали роль потребления (в особенности моды) в жизни молодых людей, обращая особое внимание на процесс формирования и поддержания личности. Обсуждали двойную модель потребления: как самовыражение(индивидуалистическое потребление) и как систему значений, предоставляющую возможность поддерживать связи с общественными племенами (племенное потребление). Представлены результаты обследования жителей Вроцлава, касающиеся закупочных отношений и ориентировок. Исследовательский материал составили 363 анкетных интервью. Выявили, что молодые люди (в возрасте 18-25 лет) были более склонны «выражать себя» посредством потребления, нежели потребители старшего возраста, а заодно они вовлекались в подражательное потребление. Они тоже одобряли экспрессивные и «развлекательные» функции одежды и моды. Практические импликации исследования обращаются к двум типам маркетинговых стратегий: маркетингу отношений и племенному маркетингу. Более того, указывают необходимость осмыслить социальные последствия «отоваренной» культуры по отношению к молодежи.
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