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1

Research into Folk Dress in the Czech Lands: From Topography to European Ethnology

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Šimša M.
Národopisná revue (Journal of Ethnology)
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2017
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vol. 27
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issue 5
30 - 55
EN
The text presents the development of the research into folk dress worn by the inhabitants of the Czech lands, beginning with the works by topographers focussing on a thorough description of particular countries and provinces of the Austrian monarchy and their inhabitants, to the development of an academic platform. This was preceded by the Czechoslavic Ethnographic Exhibition in Prague (1895) and the associated efforts to present festive and ceremonial clothing worn by rural residents. For the Exhibition, exhibits were searched for in the field, which were described and photo-documented. Many articles were published in special journals; these were supposed to support the collection of materials for an ethnographic encyclopaedia. The publication of monographs on particular ethnographic regions in the post-war period was a certain intermediate stage – folk dress was described in separate chapters of these monographs. The afore-mentioned efforts was crowned by the first volume of the publication Lidové kroje v Československu [Folk Costumes in Czechoslovakia], issued by Drahomíra Stránská in 1949. In terms of methodology, the publication became an inspiration for a generation of female research fellows who based on its spirit their struggle to assess the historical development of folk dress in particular regions. Marxist ethnography brought up new research theme in the 1950s – the interest in the life of the working classes and inhabitants in industrial areas. Later-on, the research got rid of political indoctrination, and the new methodological basis made it possible to focus not only on the historical dimension, but also on the social and cultural role of clothing in the history of the 19th and 20th centuries.
2

GENEZE ŽENSKÉHO SUKŇOVÉHO A KOŠILOVÉHO ODĚVU NA MORAVSKO-SLOVENSKÉM POMEZÍ A JEHO STŘEDOEVROPSKÝ CONTEXT

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Šimša M.
Slovenský národopis (Slovak Ethnology)
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2021
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vol. 69
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issue 1
30 – 60
EN
Over the past one hundred years, folk clothing has been considered one of the most significant elements of cultural heritage and has been perceived in this way not only by experts but, for many decades, by its wearers as well. In the present study, the author seeks to find an answer, based on an analysis of older expert texts, as to what formed the theoretical basis for this process, who were its representatives, at what conclusions they arrived, and how the methods of their work were reflected in the formulation of their conclusions. From the historical perspective, the study summarises the opinions on folk clothing, projected through the idea of Slavic unity, as can be observed in the case of Jan Koula and, through the reception of these opinions, also in the case of Lubor Niederle, Drahomíra Stránská and Viera Nosáľová. This work also offers newer reflections from the studies by Alena Jeřábková on the shaping of folk clothing within the Carpathian culture. Through the example of women’s linen skirts, the material part of the study seeks to point out the pitfalls of these approaches and highlight the need to study the construction of folk clothing from a longer historical perspective. Only in this way is the effect of clothing styles in the form of domestication of the individual pieces of stylish clothing evident, combined with older clothing layers. Even though most parts of folk clothing are not proto-Slavic and do not necessarily relate to the culture of the Carpathian curve, as a whole, they prove well the way the countryside managed to accept the transformations of contemporary fashion over the last four centuries and to incorporate them into a unique clothing complex.
3

Guild Tailors at the Pardubice Manor in the 16th Century and the Intergenerational Transfer of Their Production Experience

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Šimša M.
Národopisná revue (Journal of Ethnology)
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2023
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vol. 33
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issue 2
127 - 141
EN
The producers of garments and the intergenerational transfer of their experience were always among important tools to mediate new clothing trends and innovations. Based on the quantitative research into archival sources from the 16th century, the study tries to outline basic contours of this process, and − using several quantitative examples from the Pardubice manor − present their participants. In the region under study, tailors settled mainly in the city of Pardubice, and in small towns of Sezemice, Dašice, Přelouč, Bohdaneč, and Holice. However, individual masters also worked in several villages. Tailors formed a diverse social structure that included owners of city houses, farmers, gardeners, and poor farm hands living in rented rooms. Many parents considered apprenticeship to be a suitable way of securing the future for their children. In addition to quite a small group of young men from tailor families, it was primarily children from gardener and farmer families whose inheritance shares helped them to pay high costs associated with the apprenticeship and the subsequent journey. The employment prospects of the newly trained tailors are as yet unclear. While the sons from tailor families mostly joined the trade easily, for the others we know only that they farmed on one of the farmsteads, but there is no evidence that they operated the tailoring trade
4

Tailor’s Guilds and Their Influence on the Formation of Women’s Rural Dress in Central Europe in Early Modern Times

100%
Šimša M.
Národopisná revue (Journal of Ethnology)
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2019
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vol. 29
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issue 5
41 - 65
EN
The aim of the study is to capture the process of the formation of women’s rural dress in Central Europe in the early Middle Ages. This period brought many new impulses to women’s clothing which resulted both in the emergence of national styles of clothing (Italian, German, and Hungarian), and the rapid adoption of pan-European fashion waves of Spanish and later French fashion clothing. This took root in the noble environment first, and then in the cities. The study tries to answer the question in what way these novelties were mediated to rural residents and who did this. The author shows how the field of competences of city tailor guilds spread from cities to adjacent manors, the residents in which were forced to have their garments made exclusively by guild tailors. Thanks to noble decrees, tailor pattern books served, among other things, as models for most garments made for subjected rural residents. The author analyses period depictions, inventories of estates, and estates to orphans. He shows that most hitherto written works fail when connecting the depictions and the terms for garments, the mutual relation of which is rather illustrative than comparative. The problem consists in little knowledge of cut constructions and their period terms. The solution can be brought about by the study of guild books with tailor’s patterns, which include cut constructions and period terms. From the 16th and 17th centuries, these books have survived from the various territories of contemporary Czech Republic, Slovakia, Poland, Austria, and Germany. Due to this we can conduct necessary comparative research into iconographic, constructional, and written sources in Central Europe, and to acquire new information about men’s and women’s clothing and basic garments.
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