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Dietetyka w De re coquinaria

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Kokoszko M., Rzeźnicka Z., Katedra Historii Bizancjum W. F.-H.

Przegląd Nauk Historycznych

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2011

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vol. 10

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issue 2

EN

The article tries to demonstrate connections of De re coquinaria with the re-sults of the ancient and Byzantine research into dietetics. First, the authors present an overview of the established doctrines on the role of food in preserving human health. They resort to the Hippocratic and Galenic teachings, as well as exemplifying the presence of the dietetic knowledge in the literature of Antiquity and Byzantium (first and foremost in Deipnosophists by Atenaeus of Naucrats, De observatione ciborum by Anthimus and in Geoponica). Subsequently, they analyze select fragments from De coquinaria (i.e. the recipes for sauces [oxyporum, oxygarum digesti bile, oenogarum], flavoured salts, sales conditi, spiced wine, conditum paradoxum, honey wine, conditum melizomum viatorum, Roman absinth, absintium Romanum, rose wine, rosatum, vegetable purée, pulmentarium, the soups called tisana vel sucus and tisana barrica, and finally the commentary on nettles) , and show their analogies to the doctrines present in medical writings (mostly to those by Galen, Orybasius and Aetius of Amida).

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Zastosowanie kulinarne i medyczne pokrzywy w wybranych źródłach antycznych i bizantyńskich

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Rzeźnicka Z., Kokoszko M., Uniwersytet Łódzki K. H. B., Uniwersytet Łódzki K. H. B.

Zeszyty Wiejskie

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2013

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vol. 18

EN

The article deals with the culinary and medical usage of nettle in the light of selected ancient and Byzantine sources. Although nettle, especially young, was said to be a wholesome snack, in ancient Greece and Rome it was mainly eaten by the poor. According to recipes collected in De re coquinaria it could be served as a kind of casserole called patina. Probably it could also be an ingredient of wild vegetable salad. But first of all Greek and Byzantine physicians: Dioscurides, Galen and Aetius of Amida used its leaves, root and seeds in medical treatment. They knew two species of nettles: akalefe (¢kal»fh) and knide (kn…dh). Both were used as medicine for gynaecology and dermatology diseases likewise in curing illnesses of respiratory and digestive system. Many of the medical properties of this herb were known to Pliny the Elder. In Natural History he included among the nettle Lamium album. In his opinion it was an effective medicine for bruises, burns, dislocations, wounds etc.

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Malábathron (μαλάβαθρον). Kilka uwag o roli Cinnamomum tamala w medycynie i w kuchni antyku i Bizancjum między I a VII wiekiem

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Kokoszko M., Rzeźnicka Z., Uniwersytet Łódzki W. F.-H.

Przegląd Nauk Historycznych

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2016

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vol. 15

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issue 1

PL

Niniejszy artykuł dotyczy historii i zastosowania cynamonowca tamala, zwanego po grecku malábathron (μαλάβαθρον), a po łacinie określanego terminem malabathrum (lub malobathrum). Autorzy, na podstawie greckich tekstów medycznych i wybranych źródeł łacińskich, próbują odpowiedzieć na pytanie, kiedy przyprawa ta pojawiła się w świecie śródziemnomorskim, a nadto starają się ustalić jej zastosowanie w medycynie i sztuce kulinarnej. Jednocześnie podejmują się określenia znaczenia terminu folium, występującego w niektórych przepisach kulinarnych, zawartych w łacińskiej książce kucharskiej zatytułowanej O sztuce kulinarnej. Badacze dochodzą do wniosku, że historia opisywanej przyprawy stanowi doskonały przykład globalizacji antycznego i bizantyńskiego handlu. Mimo że brakuje dowodów, iż cynamonowiec tamala był masowo importowany na tereny leżące w basenie Morza Śródziemnego, to nie ulega wątpliwości, że był on wykorzystywany w medycynie (także w kosmetologii) i gastronomii analizowanego okresu. Autorzy ustalają, że największy wzrost zainteresowania malábathron przypadł na I w. p.n.e., co wiążą z rzymskimi podbojami na Bliskim Wschodzie oraz przyłączeniem Egiptu (które to tereny były głównymi punktami na szlaku handlowym, którym cynamonowiec tamala był transportowany). Analiza źródeł medycznych dowodzi, że dietetyczno-farmakologiczna charakterystyka opisywanej przyprawy została ukształtowana jeszcze przed I w., a w dość rozbudowanej formie utrwalił ją Dioskuridesa w traktacie De materia medica. Następnie jego ustalenia zostały uzupełnione przez Galena, a te z kolei zostały przejęte przez kolejne pokolenia bizantyńskich medyków działających do VII w. Ponieważ cynamonowiec tamala był drogim, importowanym z odległych krajów produktem, nigdy nie stał się ani powszechnym składnikiem farmaceutyków, ani też codzienną ingrediencją potraw. Mimo to analiza traktatów lekarskich poświadcza jego nieprzerwane użycie do czasów działalności Pawła z Eginy (jednak farmaceutyki, których stanowił komponent, przeznaczone były dla zamożnych pacjentów). Z kolei zgłębiając zagadnienie gastronomicznego wykorzystania malábathron, na podstawie wybranych greckojęzycznych tekstów medycznych, autorzy artykułu dochodzą do wniosku, że występujący w dziełku O sztuce kulinarnej termin folium odnosi się właśnie do cynamonowca tamala.

EN

The present study deals with the history and applications of one of the spices, called in Greek malábathron (μαλάβαθρον) and malabathrum (or malobathrum) in Latin. It is nowadays called tejpat or tejpata. The researchers try to establish the time when it appeared in the Mediterranean and subsequently identify its medical and culinary uses, which were noted in Latin texts and first and foremost in Greek medical sources. On the way the authors of the study attempt to pinpoint the meaning of the term folium used in some recipes included in the collection entitled De re coquinaria. The researchers conclude that the history of the spice is an excellent example of globalization of ancient and early Byzantine trade. Though there is no argument for mass import of cinnamomum tamala to the Mediterranean, the spice had a tangible effect on medicine (including cosmetology) and culinary art over all centuries in interest of the article. The authors admit a failure in their attempt to pinpoint the exact moment since when the aromatic leafage of cinnamomum tamala started to be transported to reach the territories, where centres of the Mediterranean civilization were blossoming. On the other hand, they prove that a major growth in the interest in the plant dates back to the 1st c. BC., and they surmise that it might have occurred in the wake of the Roman conquest of the near East and incorporation of Egypt (which were both important points on the malábathron trade route). Anyway, the dietetic- pharmacological doctrine on the characteristics of the plant had been shaped to a commonly accepted form well before the 1st century. Subsequently (and for the first time in the extant sources) it was penned by Dioscurides in his De materia medica. The theory, after being supplemented with Galen’s findings became the cornerstone of medical deliberations on the spice composed up to the 7th century. Malábathron never became a common medicine nor a cheap culinary ingredient. The fact that it was imported from far away (precisely from China, via India, to Syria and Egypt, wherefrom it was later transported to the northern shores of the Mediterranean Sea) contributed to its high price, which limited the number of its buyers and consumers. As for medicine, medical treatises suggest an unbroken use of the spice up until the time of Paul’s of Aegina medical encyclopedia (however, exclusively as a condiment utilized in medicines produced for the upper classes of society). In turn, the recipe given by Anthimus prove that cinnamonum tamala was profited from by Roman and Greek cooks, and that a taste for it developed even such barbarian as the Francs. As for the presence of malábathron-including recipes in De re coquinaria, having analyzed select Greek medical texts, the authors of the article came to the opinion that the term folium (with no adjective nor an adjectival phrase) used in the collection refers only and exclusively to cinnamomum tamala. Thereby, they support Andrew Dalby’s opinion on the subject.

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Ryż jako pokarm i medykament w antycznej i bizantyńskiej literaturze medycznej

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Kokoszko M., Jagusiak K., Rzeźnicka Z., Łódzki U.

Przegląd Nauk Historycznych

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2013

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vol. 12

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issue 1

EN

The article discusses dietetic qualities of rice, its therapeutic applications and culinary recipes pertaining to the preparation of the cereal as described in ancient and Byzantine medical sources composed between I and VII c. AD (i.e. in the writings of Dioscurides, Galen, Oribasius, Anthimus, Alexander of Tralles, Aetius of Amida and Paul of Aegina). Although focused on the time span specified above, the authors of the study also make use of additional information present in the later literary medial tradition, composed as late as XI c. (up to the time of the compilation of Symeon Seths’s Syntagma de alimentorum facultatibus). The evidence also includes purely culinary sources, i.e. De re coquinaria attributed to Apicius. The article consists of three parts. The first chapter of the study is devoted to dietetic characterizations of rice and enlists features attributed to it over the ages. Accordingly, the authors maintain that the cereal is usually said to be hard to digest, not nourishing, astringent as well as slowing down the work of the alimentary tract (possibly leading even to constipation). The above-mentioned features were consistently made use of in ancient and Byzantine medical procedures. The second part of the study tries to retrieve from medical and culinary writings main culinary guidelines according to which rice was prepared as food. The authors conclude that, as a rule, the cereal was not used for bread baking, though it is likely that it was utilized in preparing cakes. Rice usually was the basis for preparation thick, gruel-like dishes which were normally compared to chondros or poltos, less thick soups which were said to be similar to ptisane, and watery, thin concoctions called chyloi, created by diluting rice stock. The cereal was usually cooked in meat stocks and sometimes in milk (the sources maintain that in this way rice improved the dietetic characteristic of milk by means of reducing its flatulence, preventing it from affecting the liver as well as counteracting stone formation in the bladder). The third chapter enumerates medical procedures which included rice and rice products. It is interesting that especially ample information on the subject comes from the VIth century, which could testify to a considerable popularity of rice in the field of medicine long before the time when it was finally introduced as a Mediterranean crop by the Arabs. Rice (due to its astringency) was mainly used to prepare enemas, which were in turn supposed to cure dysentery and other ailments resulting in excessive excretion of fluids of the body. It was also utilized to reduce swellings and cure gout, put and end to hemorrhages, and employed in medicaments removing unwanted hair and skin irritations. Last but not leas it was recommended in multiple diets usually prescribed by the doctors to those suffering from gastric problems.

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Kilka słów o zupie zwanej ptisane

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Kokoszko M., Jagusiak K., Rzeźnicka Z., Uniwersytet Łódzki K. H. B., Uniwersytet Łódzki K. H. B., Uniwersytet Łódzki K. H. B.

Zeszyty Wiejskie

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2013

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vol. 18

EN

The present article is to report Galen’s main points introduced by that eminent ancient physician in his treatise De ptisana. His teaching is compared with the expertise of select ancient (the anonymous author of De diaeta in morbis acutis) authorities, who preceded Galen, and Byzantine doctors (Oribasius, Alexander of Tralles, Aetius of Amida, Anthimus and Paul of Aegina), who followed in Galen’s doctrinal footsteps. Additionally, the medical material is set aside culinary data taken from De re coquinaria. The collected information show proximity between culinary and medical knowledge of Antiquity and Byzantium.

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Tajemnicza roślina kinara, a zatem o antycznych karczochach i kardach

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Kokoszko M., Jagusiak K., Rzeźnicka Z., Uniwersytet Łódzki I. H., Uniwersytet Łódzki I. H., Uniwersytet Łódzki I. H.

Zeszyty Wiejskie

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2014

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vol. 19

EN

The article focuses of the history, dietetic, culinary and medical applications of the plant which was called kínara in Greek. The analyzed data suggest that the above-mentioned edible was a wild-growing thistle classified by ancient scholarship as a vegetable belonging in the class of akanthóde, i.e. thorny plants. Usually it was eaten by rural population, profited from especially in the time of hunger as emergency food (and that is why it was salted to provide supply kept to meet such hardships) but our sources also indicate that it was a gourmet’s choice (which is attested to by recipes in De re coquinaria). It was not highly evaluated by ancient and early Byzantine dietetics (from Galen of Paul of Aegina) and played a marginal role as medication. The plant was domesticated as late as between the IXth and the XIth century by Arab gardeners to evolve into the modern day artichokes and cards.

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Dietetyka w De re coquinaria

Zastosowanie kulinarne i medyczne pokrzywy w wybranych źródłach antycznych i bizantyńskich

Malábathron (μαλάβαθρον). Kilka uwag o roli Cinnamomum tamala w medycynie i w kuchni antyku i Bizancjum między I a VII wiekiem

Ryż jako pokarm i medykament w antycznej i bizantyńskiej literaturze medycznej

Kilka słów o zupie zwanej ptisane

Tajemnicza roślina kinara, a zatem o antycznych karczochach i kardach