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Odzież z krypt grobowych archikatedry w Lublinie. Analiza kostiumologiczna

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Drążkowska A., Grupa M.

Kwartalnik Historii Kultury Materialnej

2012

vol. 60

issue 2

319-329

During the exploration of St John’s metropolitan cathedral in Lublin in 2002 a large collection of lay clothing was gathered from the crypts under the southern aisle. Apart from garments and accessories the finds included fragments of textiles used to line coffins, cushions, scapulars and haberdashery (lace, gold and silver braid, silk cords). Unfortunately, only a few selected garments underwent conservation. Despite the poor condition of the remaining items, and taking into consideration that they will decay with time, the whole collection of 70 items was analysed from the costume-studies perspective. The garments were divided into two classes: those that were normally worn before the burial and those that were prepared especially for the burial. The division was based on differences in cut, in ways of joining elements and in trimming. Within the first class three categories were further distinguished: men’s national dress, men’s clothes modelled on Western fashion and women’s clothes. Features of dress intended for normal use were also found in some accessories, e.g. headgear, belts, gloves and stockings. All the elements of those garments were carefully cut, modelled and trimmed, and they were neatly joined with close backstitch or straight stitch. The second class, that of “one-use-only” garments, comprises items in which the cut and the joining of elements indicate that they were prepared especially for the funeral and could not be normally worn. Their elements were joined with shoddy straight stitch or basted and the edges were folded and ironed flat. There were several examples of simplifying the construction by not attaching the back part of the garment. This class also embraces garments that were used as everyday clothing but were specially adjusted for the burial. Special garments sewn for burial only include the so-called “death shirts”, dresses and some headgear. Two of the items found in Lublin were children’s overcoats of Polish national style remade for burial dress. Almost all the items analyses were made of silk; the only exception is a cap cut of felt. The finds from Lublin form the largest collection of burial clothes excavated in Poland.

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1 Kwartalnik Historii Kultury Materialnej

1 Drążkowska A.

1 Grupa M.

1 2012

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Odzież z krypt grobowych archikatedry w Lublinie. Analiza kostiumologiczna