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EN
The author of the article presents changes that took place in the textbook depictions of women – counted among the antiheroines of Polish History – from 1918 to 1939. The starting point are 19th-century compilations, in which the authors’ attention was focused on prominent queens of the Early Modern era: Bona Sforza, Maria Ludwika Gonzaga, and Maria Kazimiera de La Grange d’Arquien. The attitudes of the authors of historical and educational compilations created after Poland regained its independence towards these women was the result of various factors, but also a proof of acceptance of women’s new roles in the newly united – among others, through historical education – society. This applied particularly to those women’s roles that evoked social resistance, as they were linked to involvement in politics, which was viewed as a space for men’s activity.The article emphasises comparative concepts to clearly delineate differences between what was typical of educational framing pre- and post-1918. The author analyzed 30 history textbooks written in the first and second decade of Poland Reborn, addressed to children and youth in primary, gymnasium and secondary schools. The article serves as a search for the answers to the following questions: 1. In what way were ambitious women rulers perceived in different political conditions, i.e. in a situation of formal equality of the political rights of women and men? 2. How different were textbooks in the Piłsudski-reformed schools from those used earlier? 3. To what extent did the reorientation of the educational ideal of the 1930s influence the image of the politically involved Polish queens of the Early Modern era?
PL
Autorka artykułu przedstawia zmiany jakie dokonały się w podręcznikowym obrazie kobiet – zaliczanych do grupy antybohaterek dziejów Polski – w latach 1918–1939. Punktem wyjścia są opracowania dziewiętnastowieczne, w których uwaga piszących skupiona była na wybitnych królowych doby nowożytnej: Bonie, Marii Ludwice i Marii Kazimierze. Stosunek do nich autorów opracowań historyczno-dydaktycznych powstałych po odzyskaniu niepodległości był pochodną różnych czynników, ale i dowodem akceptacji dla nowych ról kobiet w scalanym na nowo społeczeństwie, m.in. drogą edukacji historycznej. Dotyczyło to szczególnie tych kobiecych ról, które wywoływały społeczny opór, ponieważ związane były z zaangażowaniem w politykę, uznawaną za przestrzeń męskiej aktywności.W artykule położono nacisk na ujęcia porównawcze, tak, aby wyraźnie zarysowały się różnice między tym, co było typowe dla ujęć dydaktycznych sprzed i po 1918 r. Przeanalizowano 30 podręczników historii powstałych w pierwszej i drugiej dekadzie Polski Odrodzonej, adresowanych do dzieci i młodzieży szkół powszechnych, gimnazjów i liceów ogólnokształcących. Poszukiwano przy tym odpowiedzi na pytania: 1. W jaki sposób postrzegano ambitne władczynie w odmiennych warunkach politycznych, tj. w sytuacji formalnej równości praw politycznych kobiet i mężczyzn? 2. Na ile podręczniki dla zreformowanej przez piłsudczyków szkoły odróżniały się od tych wykorzystywanych wcześniej? 3. W jakiej mierze reorientacja ideału wychowawczego w lat trzydziestych XX w. wpłynęła na obraz rozpolitykowanych polskich królowych doby nowożytnej?
IT
The main goal of the article is to examine how queen Bona Sforza’s taste and interest in fashion has been influenced by her nearest milieu – including her mother, Isabella of Aragon – since her childhood in Italy and until her arrival in Poland. In the first part of the text, the author seeks to obtain an answer to the question of how the Renaissance fashion could influence Bona’s look and garments. The author proposes her own translations of several sources which shed new light on the subject. The description of wedding celebrations written by Giuliano Passero, Giuliano Passero cittadino napoletano o sia prima pubblicazione in istampa, delle Storie in forma di Giornali (Napoli, 1785) is especially important for this article. The new translation of this text differs occasionally from that published by Władysław Pociecha several years ago. In the second part of this article, the author analyses ceremonial dress and jewellery which we can see on the earliest preserved portrait of Bona, painted most likely in Italy, around 1518. The woodcut, included in Jost Ludwik Decjusz’s De Sigismundi regis temporibus liber III in 1521, could not precisely depict the facial features and details of the young queen’s apparel.
PL
L’obiettivo principale dell’articolo è esaminare come il gusto e la sensibilità per la moda di Bona Sforza siano stati influenzati da sua madre, Isabella d’Aragona e dall’ambiente italiano, prima del suo arrivo in Polonia. Nella prima parte l’autrice cerca di ottenere una risposta alla domanda su come la moda rinascimentale aveva influenzato l’aspetto e il modo di vestire di Bona. Per dimostrare le sue tesi, l’autrice propone una propria versione della traduzione dei testi, che gettano nuova luce sull’argomento. In particolar modo degna di nota è la descrizione del matrimonio di Giuliano Passero, Giuliano Passero cittadino napoletano o sia prima pubblicazione in istampa, delle Storie in forma di Giornali (Napoli, 1785). La nuova traduzione presenta delle differenze rispetto alla versione di Władysław Pociecha, pubblicata negli anni Cinquanta. Nella seconda parte dell’articolo è stato analizzato l’abito cerimoniale e i gioielli indossati dalla giovane Bona nel suo unico ritratto, realizzato probabilmente in Italia all’incirca nel 1518. La xilografia, inclusa in De Sigismundi regis temporibus liber III di Jost Ludwik Decjusz nel 1521, non rendeva riconoscibile precisamente le caratteristiche del viso e i dettagli dell’abbigliamento della giovane regina.
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