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EN
Certain forms of bronze fibulae, alongside some forms of bronze belts, are recognizable items of the Middle La Tène Scordiscan female costume. One of those forms is the so-called Scordiscan variant of bronze fibulae with round plates decorated in pseudo-filigree and pseudo-granulation techniques. Fibulae belonging to this heterogeneous group, with specific variants singled out, are characteristic of communities along the Danube River which shared similar ideas of decoration of the female body during the Middle La Tène. The presence of numerous variants of fibulae clearly points to the existence of local workshops, regardless of noticeably the same basic decorative design concept in their production. Fibulae assigned to the Scordiscan variant have a characteristic trefoil motif with a knob on the top of the round plate and are, for now, known only from Scordiscan sites, due to which they can probably be considered products of their workshops. Finds of fibulae assigned to some other variants were also discovered at Scordiscan sites, indicating the existence of cultural contacts with neighbouring communities. In any case, bronze fibulae decorated in pseudo-filigree and pseudo-granulation techniques provide valuable findings of decorating Scordiscan women’s bodies, as well as their public presentation, i.e., the fibulae probably represent a recognizable manifestation of their visual identity.
EN
This paper addresses the female costume of the East Germanic tradition which was widespread in the North Caucasus throughout the Great Migration period. It was characterised by one or two big two-plate brooches (measuring more than 10 cm in length) worn on the chest or shoulders. Germanic elements, in female costume in particular, spread through the material culture of the North Caucasus in the early stage of the Great Migration period, in the last third of the 4th c. and the first decades of the 5th c. However, the costume featuring big two-plate brooches appeared in the said region, similarly to Europe in general, a bit later, in the second third of the 5th c. Almost all the archaeologically documented cases of the costume in question appearing in the burial context were in the Black Sea coast of the North Caucasus, primarily in the cemetery of Diurso in the vicinity of the present-day Novorossiysk. In the 5th c., the Tetraxitae Goths migrated from the eastern Crimea to the North Caucasus: the Utigur Huns took them when leaving the northern Black Sea area for the east. Outside of the coastal area, the big two-plate brooches and their diminished copies occurred on the sites of the type Pashkovskii – Karpovka which belonged to the proto-Adyghe population of the Kuban. The costume featuring two-plate brooches was certainly considered prestigious at least by the Tetraxitae Goths who created the cemetery of Diurso. The graves containing the attire in question usually featured rather rich grave goods. All the researchers agree that the costume featuring big two-plate brooches on the chest or shoulders was of East Germanic origin. Its prototype existed in the Cherniakhov archaeologic culture. In the Hunnic period, the costume with small two-plate brooches, which were especially widespread in the Cherniakhov culture and the northern Black Sea areas, became the background for the shaping of the ‘princely’ costume with big brooches of similar form. In its own turn, this new prestigious costume became the prototype of the East Germanic attire with big two-plate brooches as a ‘folk’ replica of prestigious East Germanic costume of the Hunnic period. From the second half of the fifth to the early sixth century, this costume was imitated by the East Germanic ‘middle class’ to become widely distributed in the Barbaricum from the North Caucasus to the Pyrenees.
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