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EN
The story of Wanda Rutkiewicz is extraordinary for several reasons. It is a story of a woman for whom her passion was the most important thing in life. She subordinated all her life to this passion — the mountains. In order to reach the summits she desired, she had to battle not only her own weaknesses, fear or power of nature, but also common beliefs which stereotypically defined the role of women in society. Women who, through climbing, “ventured” into the territories usually occupied by men often provoked feelings of misunderstanding, reluctance, irritation and even opposition among the public at large, especially men. However, Rutkiewicz went beyond many widely-held beliefs. Her independence, skills and conscious creation of her own image (also thanks to her skilful use of the media’s interest) were admirable. Although her journey ended tragically, through her activities in the high mountains she made history of not just Polish mountaineering but also women’s mountaineering.
EN
The paper gives moral evaluation of feats done by extreme athletes who participate voluntarily in life-threatening stunts or races. The evaluation of the rightness of such extreme feats was based on the first principles of natural law. The law of nature obliges everybody to preserve their lives and forbids acts against one’s own life (do not kill yourself). Extreme athletes differ from others in terms of the attitude to the ontological structure of existence: from negation and mockery of life in the case of nihilists to a praise of life in the case of athletes and goes even further in the case of Olympic athletes who embrace the pro-life civilization through their participation in the peace utopia. In this paper, the author justified the sporting premise for mountaineers to do extreme climbing. In the conclusion, the author admits that extreme feats of mountaineers is justified because these athletes, like Olympic ones, follow sports ethics and at the same time the moral value of existence. Although they consciously risk their lives, when they actually face death they do not give up and fight heroically to survive. This attitude is sufficient to evaluate the mountaineer’s performance which is on the verge of death as morally right.
EN
The article is an analysis of Adam Skoczylas’ Cztery dni słońca (Four Days of Sunshine) and Victor Saunders’ Elusive Summits, works that are part of mountain literature, the boundaries of which are set, on the one hand, by the unique context of writing involving a close relation between life and work; and on the other by unique reception involving a relation between the author and the reader based on shared experiences, on which this reception depends. The factor that became a condition for the emergence of such literature was a unique way of looking at the mountains, characteristic of mountaineers exploring the Tatras, the Alps and then also the Himalayas. It becomes a starting point for narrative as well as a condition for forming a reader group. A characteristic feature of the works discussed in the article is their narrative emphasising the intensity of sensations accompanying experiences in the mountains.
EN
The history of Polish Himalayan mountaineering, i.e. all ascended summits, new routes and records, is extremely rich and fascinating. It is impossible to describe all of this on just a few pages, which is why the aim of my paper is to describe the most outstanding expeditions, those that completely changed our thinking about Himalayan mountaineering and showed that we can deceive not only our bodies but also our subconscious. The first attempts to ascend an eight-thousander were made as early as in the 1920s; unfortunately, they all failed. Owing to the harsh conditions in the mountains, the first successful ascent of an eight-thousander did not take place until 1950, when Annapurna was ascended. The first Polish expedition was organised in 1939. Unfortunately, the Second World War and the political situation in Poland prevented Polish climbers from making further attempts for many years. The political situation in the country made it impossible for Poles to travel abroad. But Himalayan mountaineering at the time was developing very rapidly. The Poles, hungry for success, wanted to go down in history. Given the fact that all eight-thousanders had already been ascended, the Poles began a new chapter — winter Himalayan mountaineering, challenging Edmund Hillary’s assertion that in winter no form of life had a chance to survive over 7000 metres above sea level. In my paper I focus on presenting the most remarkable achievements. I describe the Golden Age of Polish Himalayan mountaineering, like the first winter ascent of Everest or Krzysztof Wielicki’s extraordinary one-day ascent of Broad Peak. There is also room for expeditions featuring Jerzy Kukuczka, an icon of Himalayan mountaineering. Climbing two eight-thousanders in one winter season and establishing a new route on K2 are still unbeaten feats. A part of my paper is devoted to women. The first all-female expeditions headed by Wanda Rutkiewicz were also a Polish domain. The number of great achievements in the mountains are truly numerous. Each of them in described in the paper, as is the death of the greatest Himalayan climbers, which led to a crisis and revisions. The paper ends with a fragment concerning an attempt to revive Polish Himalayan mountaineering.
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