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CHAPEAU BAS. ON THE MODERN PREDECESSORS OF THE TRICORNE (Chapeau bas. O nowozytnych przodkach trikorna)

100%

Zukowski J.

Kwartalnik Historii Kultury Materialnej

2010

vol. 58

issue 3-4

367-385

The wardrobes of modern gallants were full of varied hats, caps, nightcaps and skullcaps which kept the wig in place; the mediaeval kiwior was still popular around the year 1620. Due to the climate, sabre or marten caps were often worn even by the followers of the Western fashion. For example, King Sigismund III was wearing a 'wolf fur hat' when he was attacked by Piekarski. King Vladislaus IV Vasa was fond of two-peaked caps, which were called boukinkans in honour of the Duke of Buckingham. But even the Sarmatians valued the practicality of the hat. This article presents hats as an element of the Western fashion, a cultural trend that was never truly eliminated from the Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth. The hat was regarded as a signal of social distinction, religious denomination and political preferences. It had varied social functions, being a prop in legal relations, in the diplomatic protocol, in the court ritual and in the royal rite. Guides to etiquette taught when the 'jewel of the manly head' absolutely had be taken off, for example before the portrait of one's superior or in the presence of a person positioned higher in the hierarchy, unless they kindly relinquished their privilege on the occasion, etc. The sovereign had special prerogatives in this respect; apart from situations accounted for by the diplomatic protocol, courtesy and court etiquette rulers never appeared in public bare-headed. Tipping one's hat was a primary gesture of greeting, especially before the spread of the handshake custom. Finally, one's headgear could be an instrument of refined stylizations, as was the case with the 'chimney-like' a la bravado hats or the huge drooping a la Negligence hats. With the dictate of the beret receding, the second half of the 16th c. was dominated by velvet and silk hats shaped by inner constructions made of wire, straw or papier mâché (cardboard, felt, buckram, palm leaves, bast), which were often called 'Milanese hats' or 'high German caps' in Poland. Richly embroidered, usually leather a tozzo berets (French tocques, Italian tocchi, Spanish gorras aderezadas) of German provenance with a high crown and a small brim were sewn of strips of cloth so they needed 'keystones' on the top, which were often spire-shaped or covered with a 'cabochon'. To avoid fraying, the seams in silk hats were impregnated with wax. The puggaree was first used to hide seams, creases, stains of wax and glue, etc., at the joining of the crown and the brim. In the 17th c. the light a l'espagnole hat gave way to felt hats, usually made of wool mixed with beaver fur. The most popular varieties were hats of grey felt (of Italian origin) and of waterproof beaver felt (Dutch kastoor), sometimes covered with silk. 'The Albanian hat' with a wide brim and a small head-fitting crown, worn since the third quarter of the 16th c., together with the Spanish sombrero, was probably a model for the so-called 'French hat' (chapeau francais), popular in the time of Henry IV. In Polish sources hats are divided into beaver hats, called 'castor' ('full', 'three-quarter' and 'half-castor', French semi-castor) and other types, called 'simpler'. The city of Gdansk (Danzig), which played an important role in transmitting the Western fashion, was a centre of felt production and had several dozen hatters and haberdashers who manufactured puggarees (Hundbandmachere). A whole collection of a la mousquetaire hats is found in the painting The execution of a convict by Bartholomäus Milwitz in the National Museum in Gdansk. Other sources document the battle for ruling gallant heads between the hat and the wig. Hats were worn inside until c. 1685; later they no longer served to cover the head but to bare it on order to show respects, therefore they were often carried in one's hand or under one's arm. The reduction of the wig promoted tricorns, which came back to their original function; its retreat at the end of the 18th c. cleared the way for top hats.

GENTRY MANORS AND THE WARDROBE OF GENTRY-WOMEN IN THE REGION OF ZAMOSC ON THE BASIS OF NOTARISED INVENTORIES FROM 1835-1876 (Dwory ziemianskie i garderoba ziemianek Zamojszczyzny na podstawie inwentarzy notarialnych z lat 1835-1876)

100%

Szykula A.

Kwartalnik Historii Kultury Materialnej

2008

vol. 56

issue 1

19-29

Notarial deeds have long been proved an excellent source to studying material culture and the history of civilization. Historians highly appreciate probate inventories as giving them insight into everyday life through lists of furnishings, utensils and household appliances. Polish research on inventories was initiated by Wladyslaw Lozinski, author of studies on the culture of the Lvov patriciate; his example was soon followed by specialists of various disciplines. Probate inventories have become a widely-used source of data on material culture, as is evidenced by many symposia hosted by The Institute of Material Culture of the Polish Academy of Sciences in the 1990s. In the last few years symposia on inventory research have also been held at the State Archive in Radom and at the Zamojski Museum in Kozlowka. In 2004 articles were published that are directly relevant to the topic undertaken in the present paper. The research presented here concerns the region of Zamosc in the period from 1835 to 1876; more specifically it is based on the records of the notary public Franciszek Strzyzowski from 1864-1876 and the notary public Michal Celejowski from 1835-1862. In the first half of the 19th c. the region was under the Austrian and then the Russian rule, which was increasingly repressive. In 1821 the town of Zamosc was sold by the owners of the Zamosc entail to the Russian-controlled government of the Kingdom of Poland, as a result of which Zamosc lost its status of a private town and became a government town. Institutions based in Zamosc were moved elsewhere; the management of the Zamosc entail was transferred to Zwierzyniec and the main town of the newly-created Zamosc county was Janow. Since 1821 the fortress of Zamosc was being restructured and the town saw an influx of soldiers and officials supervising the army. Many public buildings, churches and private houses were taken over and adapted for military purposes, which in fact led to their ruination. As a result of those political decisions, citizens of Zamosc suffered impoverishment and wished to secure their property by notarised deeds. Therefore, notaries noted a steady growth of the number of clients throughout the 19th c. The forty volumes of records left by the notaries Michal Celejowski and Franciszek Strzyzowski include one hundred and thirty testaments, among which there are seventy inventories of women's property. All women's inventories in the corpus were analysed; 97% of those were probate inventories or testaments, while 3% were inventories drawn up for the purpose of prenuptial agreements. The article quotes both most common items and the descriptions of rarely occurring objects. The discussion of furnishings and women's clothing takes into consideration the social class of their owners. The article has paragraphs on women's rooms, tastes, interests and financial situation. It also describes toiletries, cosmetics and sewing accessories used by the women of Zamosc, as well as their religious tokens. Finally, it describes how women passed their free time. Lists of the movables with which women surrounded themselves are miniature stories about tastes and in a wider perspective can be evidence of their owners' personalities and attitudes to life. The content of the list depended on many factors, including legal regulations, the occupation and personality of the owner. The inclusion or absence of various categories of objects in the inventories points to differences in the material standing of their owners. There are also items indicating that some women did not confine themselves to their household duties and had wider interests.

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2 Kwartalnik Historii Kultury Materialnej

1 Szykula A.

1 Zukowski J.

1 2010

1 2008

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CHAPEAU BAS. ON THE MODERN PREDECESSORS OF THE TRICORNE (Chapeau bas. O nowozytnych przodkach trikorna)

GENTRY MANORS AND THE WARDROBE OF GENTRY-WOMEN IN THE REGION OF ZAMOSC ON THE BASIS OF NOTARISED INVENTORIES FROM 1835-1876 (Dwory ziemianskie i garderoba ziemianek Zamojszczyzny na podstawie inwentarzy notarialnych z lat 1835-1876)