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1

„Po co ten człowiek tam na górze?”. O politycznym wykorzystaniu przeżyć górskich

100%
Wedekind M.
Góry, Literatura, Kultura
|
2018
|
vol. 12
69-79
EN
Since the 1870s the socio-economic and national conflicts with ethnic backgrounds reached the highest Alpine peaks. This was visible in a broad European context, but especially in the Habsburg Monarchy. This was where demands for political participation and social emancipation of (allegedly) disadvantaged ethnic groups in the Reich were juxtaposed with aggressive German-Austrian strategies seeking to preserve the status quo. In this context, “capturing” and “seizing” highland areas in disputed language border regions of the multi-ethnic empire became terms of huge symbolic and identity-shaping significance. In comparison with the British Alpine Club, whose members were well travelled climbers, Central European Alpine associations were anchored in regional political contexts and had clear nationalistic views. They reflected the specific socio-psychological determinants, moral values and social norms of the bourgeois elites, from among whom the leaders and members of these associations came almost exclusively as late as in the early 20th century. In its early hybrid form — vacillating between sport and science — mountaineering turned out in many respects to be a useful tool of cultural takeover and emotional awareness-raising with regard to one’s own homeland presumed to be threatened by a foreign element; it was useful as a driving force in internalising national identity, social values, political concepts as well as heroic military maxims referring to desirable behaviour. The first ascents of mountain peaks and “capturing” of hitherto untouched highland areas, construction of prestigious hotels and mountain hostels as well as nationally-inspired monuments on mountain peaks became semiotic expressions of territorial aspirations of a nation, a symbolic seizure of the mountains, preventing “ethnically foreign” profanations. Thus emerged a new, collectively binding mental map with sanctified mountain peaks and ranges that were incorporated into the nation’s iconography. The politicisation of mountains and mountain climbing became part of the “nationalisation of the masses.” The author of the article examines these aspects, using the multi-ethnic region of Tyrol as an example. He analyses, first of all, the Società degli Alpinisti Tridentini, an organisation operating in the southern, Italian-speaking part of the country, and its equivalent, the much larger German and Austrian Alpine Club. The analysis features, among others, various ideas of “nature”, “mountains” and climbing, varied goals mountaineers set for themselves, and, finally, the link between socio-economic conflicts with ethnic backgrounds and peaks in the Dolomites and the Ortler. These were conflicts which, in some sense, paved the way for the subsequent fighting during the First World War or, in any case, directly led to it.
2

Grenzen im Aufstieg. Berge als Transgressionsräume von Geschlechtergrenzen

100%
Gugglberger M.
Góry, Literatura, Kultura
|
2017
|
vol. 11
343-360
EN
Mountains and Alpine spaces are historical places where determined national, economic and cultural norms as well as practices were and still are negotiated. The article focuses on the question of gender in the mountains as a social space, which the author explores, drawing on the example of the history of climbing expeditions to the highest mountains in the world, the Himalayas. Against this background she presents, from the point of view of gender history, the so-called female expeditions, i.e. mountain expeditions initiated, organised and conducted from the mid-1950s by all-female teams. They serve as analytical lenses to look into gender relations in mountaineering and their transformations in 1955–2014. Drawing on four social spaces the author raises questions about crossing gender boundaries due to socially-constructed gender norms as well as strategies for overcoming them. The first part of the article is devoted to female expeditions undertaken in 1955–1962 by British female climbers. These enterprises expanded the areas in which female mountaineers operated, without, however, questioning social gender stereotypes. The organisers of the expeditions deliberately presented themselves in accordance with social gender norms, and by choosing reasonable mountain goals, didn’t join the competition associated with the Himalayan eight-thousanders. The importance of gender based boundaries in high altitude mountaineering in the late 1950s is revealed in part two of the article when for the first time a female team set a famous eight-thousander as a goal for themselves. Press reports from before and after the expedition reflect prejudice and scepticism, presenting the female climbers in a manner that affronted them as overambitious and incompetent. It was not until the 1970s that a younger generation of female climbers openly and critically spoke against sexism and discrimination of women in high mountain climbing, as the author describes in part three. Female expeditions allowed women to avoid exclusion from male teams and attempt to climb the highest peaks on their own. The article ends with a presentation of the significance of female expeditions in the Himalayan state of Nepal, where since the 1990s such expeditions have provided Nepalese women with opportunities to made their mark on the tourist trade. On the other hand, female expeditions have been used by tourist and political institutions as an instrument of raising public awareness of issues like equality policy, climate protection or promotion of tourism.
3

Granice we wspinaniu. Góry jako przestrzenie transgresji granic płci

100%
Gugglberger M.
Góry, Literatura, Kultura
|
2017
|
vol. 11
361-376
EN
Mountains and Alpine spaces are historical places where determined national, economic and cultural norms as well as practices were and still are negotiated. The article focuses on the question of gender in the mountains as a social space, which the author explores, drawing on the example of the history of climbing expeditions to the highest mountains in the world, the Himalayas. Against this background she presents, from the point of view of gender history, the so-called female expeditions, i.e. mountain expeditions initiated, organised and conducted from the mid-1950s by all-female teams. They serve as analytical lenses to look into gender relations in mountaineering and their transformations in 1955–2014. Drawing on four social spaces the author raises questions about crossing gender boundaries due to socially-constructed gender norms as well as strategies for overcoming them. The first part of the article is devoted to female expeditions undertaken in 1955–1962 by British female climbers. These enterprises expanded the areas in which female mountaineers operated, without, however, questioning social gender stereotypes. The organisers of the expeditions deliberately presented themselves in accordance with social gender norms, and by choosing reasonable mountain goals, didn’t join the competition associated with the Himalayan eight-thousanders. The importance of gender based boundaries in high altitude mountaineering in the late 1950s is revealed in part two of the article when for the first time a female team set a famous eight-thousander as a goal for themselves. Press reports from before and after the expedition reflect prejudice and scepticism, presenting the female climbers in a manner that affronted them as overambitious and incompetent. It was not until the 1970s that a younger generation of female climbers openly and critically spoke against sexism and discrimination of women in high mountain climbing, as the author describes in part three. Female expeditions allowed women to avoid exclusion from male teams and attempt to climb the highest peaks on their own. The article ends with a presentation of the significance of female expeditions in the Himalayan state of Nepal, where since the 1990s such expeditions have provided Nepalese women with opportunities to made their mark on the tourist trade. On the other hand, female expeditions have been used by tourist and political institutions as an instrument of raising public awareness of issues like equality policy, climate protection or promotion of tourism.
4

„Was soll der Mensch da oben?“. Vom politischen Nutzen des Bergerlebnisses

100%
Wedekind M.
Góry, Literatura, Kultura
|
2018
|
vol. 12
55-68
EN
Since the 1870s the socio-economic and national conflicts with ethnic backgrounds reached the highest Alpine peaks. This was visible in a broad European context, but especially in the Habsburg Monarchy. This was where demands for political participation and social emancipation of (allegedly) disadvantaged ethnic groups in the Reich were juxtaposed with aggressive German-Austrian strategies seeking to preserve the status quo. In this context, “capturing” and “seizing” highland areas in disputed language border regions of the multi-ethnic empire became terms of huge symbolic and identity-shaping significance. In comparison with the British Alpine Club, whose members were well travelled climbers, Central European Alpine associations were anchored in regional political contexts and had clear nationalistic views. They reflected the specific socio-psychological determinants, moral values and social norms of the bourgeois elites, from among whom the leaders and members of these associations came almost exclusively as late as in the early 20th century. In its early hybrid form — vacillating between sport and science — mountaineering turned out in many respects to be a useful tool of cultural takeover and emotional awareness-raising with regard to one’s own homeland presumed to be threatened by a foreign element; it was useful as a driving force in internalising national identity, social values, political concepts as well as heroic military maxims referring to desirable behaviour. The first ascents of mountain peaks and “capturing” of hitherto untouched highland areas, construction of prestigious hotels and mountain hostels as well as nationally-inspired monuments on mountain peaks became semiotic expressions of territorial aspirations of a nation, a symbolic seizure of the mountains, preventing “ethnically foreign” profanations. Thus emerged a new, collectively binding mental map with sanctified mountain peaks and ranges that were incorporated into the nation’s iconography. The politicisation of mountains and mountain climbing became part of the “nationalisation of the masses.” The author of the article examines these aspects, using the multi-ethnic region of Tyrol as an example. He analyses, first of all, the Società degli Alpinisti Tridentini, an organisation operating in the southern, Italian-speaking part of the country, and its equivalent, the much larger German and Austrian Alpine Club. The analysis features, among others, various ideas of “nature”, “mountains” and climbing, varied goals mountaineers set for themselves, and, finally, the link between socio-economic conflicts with ethnic backgrounds and peaks in the Dolomites and the Ortler. These were conflicts which, in some sense, paved the way for the subsequent fighting during the First World War or, in any case, directly led to it.
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