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EN
The article contains the latest research results of the collection of leather artefacts, obtained during excavation at the Market Square in Gniew in 1976 (site 2, trench IV). The collection of footwear remnants and production waste (offcuts), obtained from layers dated at the end of the 13th, first and second half of the 14th century, was examined. Based on the microscopic observation, the species classification of the raw material was established (Tab. 1–5). Significant differences in the proportions of raw material from small and large ruminants and wild animals were found in the collection of shoe remnants and offcuts of new skins. Good quality soft leather and secondary raw material from cutting worn shoes were used in the workshop production. A large number of secondary offcuts of repetitive shapes (Figs. 2, 3) allowed the reconstruction of the shoe cutting scheme to recycle leather (Fig. 4). The obtained results confirmed the shoemaking and repair nature of the workshop in which footwear was made of new leather and used products were collected in order to repair or reuse the raw material.
PL
W artykule omówiono zbiór wyrobów skórzanych odkrytych podczas badań archeologicznych fosy otaczającej Stare Miasto w Gdańsku (ul. Wałowa 40). Średniowieczną fosę, funkcjonującą od drugiej połowy XIV wieku, zaczęto zasypywać w latach trzydziestych XVII stulecia. Omawiany zbiór pochodzi z nienaruszonej warstwy zasypiskowej datowanej na lata czterdzieste i pięćdziesiąte XVII wieku. W zbiorze znajduje się 765 wyrobów skórzanych, w większości pozostałości wieloczęściowego obuwia. Najliczniejsza grupa zachowanych wierzchów pochodzi z obuwia wiązanego na podbiciu, noszonego powszechnie od połowy XVI do XVII wieku, zgodnie z modą zachodnioeuropejską. Pozostałe przedmioty skórzane, np. fragmenty odzieży i dodatki do ubiorów, stanowią zaledwie 3,5% zbioru. Najbardziej wyjątkowym znaleziskiem w tej kategorii jest przednia część kaftana wykonana ze skóry zwierząt z rodziny jeleniowatych.
EN
The article discusses an assemblage of leather artefacts found during archaeological investigations of the moat enclosing the Old Town in Gdańsk (40 Wałowa Street). The medieval moat, functioning from the second half of the 14th century, began being backfilled in the 1630s. The collection in question comes from the intact backfill layer dated to the 1640s and 1650s. The collection includes 765 leather artefacts, mostly remains of multiple-soled footwear. The most numerous group of preserved uppers come from latchet shoes, commonly worn from the mid-16th and into the 17th centuries, following Western European fashion. Other leather items, i.e., clothing remains and dress accessories, account for only 3.5% of the recovered items. The most exceptional find of this category is the front part of a jerkin made from deerskin.
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