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This article discusses the contexts that contributed to the success of one of the theatre and television hits during Poland’s transformation – Jędrzej Kitowicz’s play Opis obyczajów, czyli… jak zwyczajnie wszędzie się mięsza złe do dobrego [Description of Customs, or How Evil Simply Everywhere Interferes with Good] directed by Mikołaj Grabowski, which premiered in 1990. While offering some insight into the eighteenth-century vicar’s prose reminiscing about the good old days under the rule of the Saxon kings and high-quality performances from the actors, the performance also reflected the contemporary reality in which viewers could see themselves. The lack of period costumes or props and the focus on parts of the play dealing with bigotry and feasting showed that the reality from (at that time) 250 years before was not that much different from the contemporary one. Old Polish culture was presented as a blissful time of people enjoying their lives and automatically identifying themselves with nobility and court life. The 1990 interpretation highlighted the gastronomic and consumerist aspects of the play, outlining why this sphere of life became to serve as the most accurate metaphor for the condition of the Polish state and society (visible in other sources from the transformation period such as numerous cultural texts). It seeks to expose that paradoxical time of scarcity despite the theoretical availability of food products in the face of the dynamically changing social structure and the need of the middle class to distinguish itself which can also be observed even today.
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