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EN
Chasuble is a decorative outer vestment used by Catholic priests to celebrate Mass. It comes from the Roman paenula, that is a light coat protecting from rain. It was commonly used by Christian priests since the 4th century, and it became a characteristic feature of the priesthood from the 7th century. Over the centuries chasubles were the subject of different modifications. After the Trent Council planets were shortened until the violin shape – these were so-called Roman chasubles. First chasubles had ornamental patterns of the fabrics they were made of. However, Roman paenule had vertical stripes, so-called clavi, which later formed a decorative column sometimes adopting the form of a cross. Chasubles were made from the best silk fabrics. Diocesan Museum in Siedlce has the exhibition of the Post-Tridentine chasubles. The embroidered chasuble from the 17th century is an example of Italian design. The chasubles from the 18th century are came from the Radziwiłł foundation from Biała Podlaska. The first is an example of French embroidery, whereas the second was made in a local manufacture. The red chasuble with the Star of the Order of the White Eagle is a very interesting exhibit, vere rarely decoration of liturgical vestments. The chasuble with the kontusz sash it is the Polish tradition of storage in memory of noble costume. The last example it is the funeral vestment with a very rich embroidery with the Passion of the Christ motifs. Throughout the time we can see a variety of fabrics, techniques and ornamentation methods used in the production of vestments. Each of the examples has its original decorativeness.
PL
Ornat jest ozdobną szatą wierzchnią używaną przez katolickich duchownych do sprawowania Mszy świętej. Swoją genezę wywodzi z rzymskiej paenuli, czyli lekkiego płaszcza chroniącego przed deszczem. W Kościele jest stosowana od IV w., a VII w. uznano ją za strój liturgiczny. Na przestrzeni wieków ornaty były poddawane różnorodnym modyfikacjom. Po Soborze Trydenckim planety uzyskały formę przypominającą skrzypce, są to tzw. ornaty rzymskie. Pierwsze ornaty posiadały wzory ornamentalne tkanin, z których były wykonywane. Jednak rzymskie paenule miały pionowe pasy, tzw. clavi, które z czasem utworzyły ozdobną kolumnę przyjmującą niekiedy kształt krzyża. Do wyrobu ornatów stosowano najlepsze tkaniny jedwabne. Głównym motywem dekoracyjnym są haftowane preteksty. Muzeum Diecezjalne w Siedlcach posiada ekspozycję ornatów potrydenckich. Haftowany ornat z XVII wieku jest przykładem wzornictwa włoskiego. Ornaty z XVIII wieku pochodzą z fundacji Radziwiłłów z Białej Podlaskiej. Pierwszy jest przykładem hafciarstwa francuskiego, natomiast drugi został wykonany w miejscowym warsztacie. Ciekawym eksponatem jest czerwony ornat z gwiazdą Orderu Orła Białego – rzadko spotykana forma dekoracji szat liturgicznych. Ornat z pasa kontuszowego to polska tradycja przechowywania w pamięci stroju szlacheckiego. Ostatnim przykładem jest szata liturgiczna żałobna z bardzo bogatym haftem o tematyce Męki Pańskiej. Na przestrzeni tego czasu widać różnorodność tkanin, technik i sposobów ornamentyki stosowanych do wyrobu szat liturgicznych. Każdy z przykładów charakteryzuje się oryginalną dekoracyjnością.
XX
Chasuble is a decorative outer vestment used by Catholic priests to celebrate Mass. Its decorativeness, as well as the decorativeness of all vestments, emphasizes the celebrant and the significance of the liturgical activities. Chasuble comes from the Roman „paenula”, that is a light coat protecting from rain. It was commonly used by Christian priests since the fourth century, and it became a characteristic feature of the priesthood from the seventh century. Liturgical vestments started to develop since the ninth century, when they were used only for liturgical purposes by blessing. Over the centuries chasubles were the subject of different modifications. From the twelfth to the fifteenth century chasubles had the shape of the bell, and they were called gothic chasubles. After that time, especially after the Council of Trent, they were gradually modified. Chasubles were shortened until the violin shape – these were the so called Roman chasubles. First chasubles had ornamental patterns of the fabrics they were made of. However, Roman „paenule” had vertical stripes, the so called „clavi”, which later formed a decorative column sometimes adopting the form of a cross. Chasubles were made from the best silk fabrics. From the fourteenth to the first half of the seventeenth century the most popular were Italian fabrics, and from the second half of the seventeenth century – French fabrics. The main decorative motifs are embroidered orphreys. In medieval times they were mainly figural representations and since the Renaissance they became more plastic and decorative thanks to goldsmith’s additives. In the time of Renaissance plant ornamentation is the dominant. However, since the Counter-Reformation vestment embroidery was dominated by plant-flower ornamentation, with heavy and complex compositions. A common feature of the presented vestments is their cut, formed finally after the Council of Trent. In this form it has survived over 400 years, until the Second Vatican Council. Throughout this time we can see a variety of fabrics, techniques and ornamentation methods used in the production of vestments. Each of the examples has its original decorativeness.
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