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The Success Rate and Most Frequent Mistakes of Journeymen at Master Tailor Examination in the 17th and 18th Centuries on the Example of the Guild of Tailors in Česká Kamenice

100%

Svoboda J.

Národopisná revue (Journal of Ethnology)

2023

vol. 33

issue 2

115 - 126

The protocols recording the course of master examinations are a unique source to understand guild issues, yet historical and ethnological research has not paid much attention to them. From the environment of tailor guilds in the Czech lands, three quite large sets of these protocols were found; these were conceived as books in the cities of Aš, Krnov, and Česká Kamenice. While the first two books contain brief protocols that do not allow for a too deep insight into the course of the examination, the one from Česká Kamenice is unique in terms of its thorough nature and connection to other and similarly rare sources (the book of patterns), and it offers a detailed insight into the course and complexity of the tailors’ master examination. When analysing mistakes mentioned in the case of presented garments, we can imagine the demanding character of particular master pieces, when some of them were beyond the abilities of four of the five journeymen tested. The frequently repeated mistakes indicate insufficient preparation and the inability of journeymen to access drawing and measuring of cuts − the greatest secrets of master tailors. The conclusion of the treatise raises the question of the success rate of master and non-master sons, whereby the limited sample of tailors from Česká Kamenice demonstrates that the second group was more successful during the examination.

Guild Tailors at the Pardubice Manor in the 16th Century and the Intergenerational Transfer of Their Production Experience

86%

Šimša M.

Národopisná revue (Journal of Ethnology)

2023

vol. 33

issue 2

127 - 141

The producers of garments and the intergenerational transfer of their experience were always among important tools to mediate new clothing trends and innovations. Based on the quantitative research into archival sources from the 16th century, the study tries to outline basic contours of this process, and − using several quantitative examples from the Pardubice manor − present their participants. In the region under study, tailors settled mainly in the city of Pardubice, and in small towns of Sezemice, Dašice, Přelouč, Bohdaneč, and Holice. However, individual masters also worked in several villages. Tailors formed a diverse social structure that included owners of city houses, farmers, gardeners, and poor farm hands living in rented rooms. Many parents considered apprenticeship to be a suitable way of securing the future for their children. In addition to quite a small group of young men from tailor families, it was primarily children from gardener and farmer families whose inheritance shares helped them to pay high costs associated with the apprenticeship and the subsequent journey. The employment prospects of the newly trained tailors are as yet unclear. While the sons from tailor families mostly joined the trade easily, for the others we know only that they farmed on one of the farmsteads, but there is no evidence that they operated the tailoring trade

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2 Národopisná revue (Journal of Ethnology)

1 Svoboda J.

1 Šimša M.

2 2023

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The Success Rate and Most Frequent Mistakes of Journeymen at Master Tailor Examination in the 17th and 18th Centuries on the Example of the Guild of Tailors in Česká Kamenice

Guild Tailors at the Pardubice Manor in the 16th Century and the Intergenerational Transfer of Their Production Experience