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SPOSOBY NA MODĘ

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EN
The presence of fashion in a museum, including today’s clothes as well as outfits of 20-30 years, already has its history. Since the 1970s, the number of such exhibitions has been consistently growing, now possibly achieving the peak of popularity. The article outlays a brief history of presenting fashion in museums and indicates the types of exhibitions most popular today. Presenting the output of a selected designer seems to be the most important among these types. This is also related to a change of the status of designers who are nowadays treated almost as artists. However, there is a risk that such exhibitions might be regarded as expensive, prestigious advertisement, deprived of any substantial content. The second popular kind of presenting fashion involves compiling it in one space together with art. In particular, clothes by such designers as Yohji Yamamoto, Rei Kawakubo, Viktor & Rolf, Martin Margiela or Hussein Chalayan are presented in such manner. The above is accompanied by reflections of an academic nature. Anglo-Saxon experiences clearly show the close relation and mutual stimulation of the two milieus: museum professionals/ curators and academics. Against a background painted in such a way, the author synthetically presents the issue of fashion exhibited in Polish museums.
PL
Obecność mody w muzeum, a więc ubiorów współczesnych i tych 20-30 letnich ma już swoją historię. Od lat 70. XX w. sukcesywnie przybywa wystaw o tej tematyce, osiągając obecnie, być może, szczyt popularności. Artykuł przedstawia krótką historię eksponowania mody w muzeach i wskazuje najpopularniejsze dziś typy wystaw. Najważniejszym z nich wydaje się być ten, prezentujący dorobek wybranego projektanta. Związane jest to również ze zmianą statusu projektantów, którzy obecnie traktowani są niemal jak artyści. Istnieje jednak ryzyko, że takie wystawymogą być uznane za drogą, dającą prestiż reklamę, pozbawioną zawartości merytorycznej. Drugim z popularnych typów prezentacji mody jest zestawianie jej w jednej przestrzeni ze sztuką. Zwłaszcza ubiory takich projektantów, jak Yohji Yamamoto, Rei Kawakubo, Viktor & Rolf, Martin Margiela czy Hussein Chalayan eksponowane są w ten sposób. Towarzyszy temu również refleksja akademicka.Doświadczenia krajów anglo-saskich wyraźnie pokazują bliski związek i wzajemną stymulację tych dwóch środowisk: muzealników/kuratorów oraz akademików. Na tak zarysowanym tle autor syntetycznie prezentuje zagadnienie mody eksponowanej w polskich muzeach.
EN
The issues discussed in this article concentrate on selected legal and economic aspects of the art rental institution. Civil Code regulations do not contain a specific art rental contract. It is shown in practice that temporary loans of historic objects (or, in a broader sense, culture goods) take place on the basis of a loan contract, leasing contract or a commodate. What is worth our attention is the fact that the art rental institution should be approached on two layers. The first one includes temporary loans of historic objects for display purposes in Poland, the other represents the promotion of the Polish culture abroad and participation of Polish historic objects in foreign exhibitions. From an economic point of view, the art rental services market is not identical with the art market. Consumers of these two markets differ greatly from one another, thus, they cannot be classified in conjunction. The market analysis carried out in this study indicated an increase in the number of companies specialised in temporary loans of historic objects, which allows us to speculate that there is certain demand for a given service. Is it true that a trend consisting in temporary loans of works of art for decorative purposes has found its way to Poland?
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