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KONSERWACJA XVII- I XVIII-WIECZNEJ DZIECIĘCEJ ODZIEŻY GROBOWEJ

100%
Drążkowska A.
Ochrona Zabytków
|
2005
|
issue 1
55-67
EN
The article deals with textile monuments extracted in the course of archaeological work from crypts and tombs situated below floors in the churches of the Assumption of the Holy Virgin Mary in Toruń, St. Nicholas in Toruń, St. John in Gdańsk, St. Peter and Paul in Tworków, and the Holy Virgin Mary in Kostrzyn as well as the arch-cathedral of St. John in Lublin. The conservation encompassed 29 fragments of children’s clothes, which comprised part of the outfitting of children’s burials. Select examples of the apparel, preserved in larger fragments, were reconstructed by recreating the original form and shape. The conserved clothes had been sewn specially for the burial ceremony in accordance with the fashion of the time; they are accompanied by clothes worn by children while alive, “death” smocks, and apparel specially made from refashioned daily clothes. The conservation was conducted in the Atelier for the Documentation and Conservation of Archaeological Monuments in the Institutes of Archaeology at the Mikołaj Kopernik University in Toruń. Since the conserved clothes were coagulated, affected by fungi, damaged and dirty, they were first disinfected in a gas chamber by using ethylene oxide. After initial cleaning, the disinfection was repeated by applying a 0,5% solution of m p-chloro-m-cresol in methanol (PCMC). Prior to the cleaning, silk fibres were moistened and rendered flexible by means of a 5% and 10% water solution of PEG 200 or PEG 300. Several days later, the water bath was augmented with Pretepon G, used as a washing agent. One of the dresses and one of the żupans were impregnated (Paraloid B72, polyethylene glycol 300 in methanol and toluene) due to the damaged and weakened silk fibres. The next stage involved duplicating and reconstructing the missing elements of the clothes with acrylic glue 498 HV (Lascaux); in places the fabric was threaded together. Finally, trimmings made out of metal thread were cleaned and protected separately.
2
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Research in the Crypts of the Church of Saint Francis of Assisi in Cracow

100%
Drążkowska A.
Acta Universitatis Lodziensis. Folia Archaeologica
|
2020
|
issue 35
97-106
PL
W artykule zaprezentowano wyniki badań archeologicznych prowadzonych w latach 2017–2018 w kościele św. Franciszka z Asyżu w Krakowie, które finansowane były przez Narodowe Centrum Nauki. Celem podjętych prac było zlokalizowanie, inwentaryzacja i eksploracja krypt grobowych oraz szczegółowe przebadanie pochówków wraz z wyposażeniem. Omówiono różne urządzenia użyte do poszukiwań krypt, metody badań i wypracowane przez zespół procedury. Dzięki nim odnaleziono osiemnaście krypt w kościele i cztery w krużgankach klasztoru. Wszystkie podziemne pomieszczenia zostały zinwentaryzowane za pomocą skaningu laserowego 3D. W trakcie badań odnaleziono 96 pochówków osób świeckich i duchownych, mężczyzn, kobiet i dzieci.
EN
The paper presents the results of archaeological research carried out from 2017 to 2018 in the Church of Saint Francis of Assisi in Cracow, funded by the National Science Centre. The aim of the work undertaken was to locate, inventory, and explore crypts, and to study in detail burials and grave goods. The paper discusses different devices, research methods, and procedures developed by the team and used to locate crypts. They allowed to find eighteen crypts in the church and four in the cloisters. All underground chambers were inventoried using 3D laser scanning. During research, ninety-six burials of the lay and the clergy, men, women, and children, were found.
3

Odzież z krypt grobowych archikatedry w Lublinie. Analiza kostiumologiczna

63%
Drążkowska A., Grupa M.
Kwartalnik Historii Kultury Materialnej
|
2012
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vol. 60
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issue 2
319-329
EN
During the exploration of St John’s metropolitan cathedral in Lublin in 2002 a large collection of lay clothing was gathered from the crypts under the southern aisle. Apart from garments and accessories the finds included fragments of textiles used to line coffins, cushions, scapulars and haberdashery (lace, gold and silver braid, silk cords). Unfortunately, only a few selected garments underwent conservation. Despite the poor condition of the remaining items, and taking into consideration that they will decay with time, the whole collection of 70 items was analysed from the costume-studies perspective. The garments were divided into two classes: those that were normally worn before the burial and those that were prepared especially for the burial. The division was based on differences in cut, in ways of joining elements and in trimming. Within the first class three categories were further distinguished: men’s national dress, men’s clothes modelled on Western fashion and women’s clothes. Features of dress intended for normal use were also found in some accessories, e.g. headgear, belts, gloves and stockings. All the elements of those garments were carefully cut, modelled and trimmed, and they were neatly joined with close backstitch or straight stitch. The second class, that of “one-use-only” garments, comprises items in which the cut and the joining of elements indicate that they were prepared especially for the funeral and could not be normally worn. Their elements were joined with shoddy straight stitch or basted and the edges were folded and ironed flat. There were several examples of simplifying the construction by not attaching the back part of the garment. This class also embraces garments that were used as everyday clothing but were specially adjusted for the burial. Special garments sewn for burial only include the so-called “death shirts”, dresses and some headgear. Two of the items found in Lublin were children’s overcoats of Polish national style remade for burial dress. Almost all the items analyses were made of silk; the only exception is a cap cut of felt. The finds from Lublin form the largest collection of burial clothes excavated in Poland.
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