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EN
Foreign in the kitchen. Food as a way to implement “familiar–foreign” and “patrician–plebeian” oppositions in Russian culture till 19th century The paper addresses the problem of eating habits as an identification code which defines affiliation to a particular community or a social layer. Till 17th century there was no distinction between aristocratic and plebeian dishes in Old Russian cuisine. 17th century brought differentiation between the diet of aristocracy and lower layers of society. During the reign of Peter the Great selection of dishes as well as the way of their preparation and eating became an identification code denoting belonging to the Western aristocratic culture. At the turn of the 18th and 19th centuries the division into aristocratic and plebeian kitchen was established. The changes in Russian cuisine were also related to attitude toward the foreign influences and often were politically motivated. Literary source used in the paper is represented mostly by fragments of the works by Russian writers such as Nikolai Gogol, Ivan Goncharov and Leo Tolstoy.
RU
Чужие на кухне. Еда как способ реализации оппозиции «свое–чужое» и «аристократическое–плебейское» в русской культуре до XIX столетия В настоящей статье еда рассматривается как идентификационный код, определяющий принадлежность к данному общественному слою или группе. В древнерусской кухне не наблюдалось существенной разницы между плебейскими и аристократическими блюдами. Разница стала замечаться лишь только в XVIII столетии при Петре I, когда подбор блюд, способ их приготовления и способ приема пищи стали кодами, посредством которых определялась принадлежность к западной аристократической культуре. Это строгое разделение на «аристократическое» и «плебейское» в русской кухне упрочилось на рубеже XVIII и XIX столетий. Описываемые в статье перемены в русской кухне были связаны с отношением русских к чужим влияниям и довольно часто основывались на политических началах. В качестве иллюстративного литературного материала в статье использованы фрагменты романов Николая Гоголя, Ивана Гончарова и Льва Толстого.
EN
The article concerns very typical issues of Ludmila Ulitskaya’s prose, namely childhood and maturity as well as relationship between human and things (objects). In the novel entitled The Big Green Tent the process of moral development is described. It involves, among other things, sudden events of crucial and initiatory character, which have the features of special ritual. During rituals the heroes are submitted to physical and mental resilience tests. There are some objects inherent to heroes’ initiation. In the novel they go beyond the inanimate matter, which is passive and submitted to human will. They are personified, have their own history and what is most important they are the driving force, the initiators of turning points which affect heroes’ future. Those objects are: a camera, skates and a knife. Revealing the objects’ “agency” is one of main aims of the article. Agency of above mentioned objects manifests itself by the way they influence heroes’ behavior, interfere in their future and play significant role in heroes’ development to maturity. 
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