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EN
The article contains a brief presentation of the scapular and indicates its origins in the field of working clothes at the close of antiquity. The author of the article complements the literary sources with the iconographic material as well as portrays the changes of its form. The article also illustrates the evolution of the function that the scapular went through – from the role of a habit accessory (in St Benedict’s monastic rule) to the sign of piety associated with spiritual exercises of „good death”.
EN
The habit of the Carmelite Nuns of the Ancient Observance, formed on the basis of their constitutions of 1482, combined forms borrowed from the habit of the Carmelite Monks (tunics) with the models that came from Polish women’s fashion (headwear used by married women and widows – mob cap, wimple). The analysis of the habit of the Discalced Carmelite Nuns is based on extensive written sources as well as iconography. Their habit demonstrated the reception of forms of women’s clothing of Spanish provenance (a dress called saya and toca – a headdress), modified in accordance with the spirit of poverty and austerity. In the dress of candidates and in the symbols introduced to the vestition ceremony, native elements are visible. The symbolism of the habit is connected with Carmelite spirituality, whose main features are the cult of the Virgin Mary, that of the Passion, and the spirit of expiation. It also contains some meanings that come from the monastic tradition: the nuptial and baptismal significance being the symbol of new life. The habit is also the tunica sacra and the armour of the Miles Christianus.
PL
Strój karmelitanek dawnej obserwancji, ukształtowany w oparciu o konstytucje z 1482 roku, łączył formy zapożyczone ze strojów karmelitów (tuniki) oraz wzorce płynące z polskiej mody kobiecej (nakrycie głowy używane przez mężatki i wdowy – czepiec, rańtuch, podwika). Podstawą do analizy stroju karmelitanek bosych są bogate teksty źródłowe i ikonograficzne. Habit wykazywał recepcję form ubiorów kobiecych o proweniencji hiszpańskiej (suknia zwana saya oraz toca – nakrycie głowy), modyfikowanych zgodnie z duchem ubóstwa i surowości. W ubiorach kandydatek oraz w symbolach wprowadzonych do ceremonii obłóczyn widoczne są pierwiastki rodzime. Symbolika habitu łączy się z duchowością karmelitańską, której głównym rysem jest kult maryjny, pasyjność, duch ekspiacji. Niesie także znaczenia płynące z tradycji monastycznej: nupcjalne i chrzcielne będąc symbolem nowości życia. Habit to także tunica sacra oraz zbroja Miles Christianus.
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