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1

Od národního hnutí k folklorismu: proměna lidového oděvu v Evropě v 19. a 20. století

100%
Romankova E.
Národopisná revue (Journal of Ethnology)
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2016
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vol. 26
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issue 3
179 - 190
EN
European society of the 19th and 20th centuries underwent a lot of changes which were caused by economic, social and political reasons. Due to this, European countries set their hopes on symbols of national safety which they often tried to find in the expressions of traditional folk culture. Folk dress was among the most important ones. In many European countries, the last quarter of the 18th century saw struggles to create a kind of national dress, especially in connection with the spread of Romanticism ideas. The need for national costume used to be determined by historical circumstances and the position of a particular country or ethnic group in relation to the nations surrounding them. In this way, for example, the connection of Dirndl and leather trousers in the German speaking countries, or the Norwegian bunad developed. In the sense of the Romantic opinion on the countryside, even Scottish noblemen accepted the dress coming from the Highlands in Scotland as a symbol of their political goals. In eastern- European countries, people stopped wearing folk dress on regular basis significantly later, often only in the 20th century. For this reason, regional differentness could be preserved there, which did not lead to the creation of a single type of national costume. This could not be pushed though even in the Czech lands even though the 19th and 20th centuries saw the struggles to create national dress with a strong identifying function. On the other hand, contemporary wearers and makers, while reconstructing folk garments, are more and more interested in the original local appearance and variability of folk dress.
2

Funkce „Trachtu“ v životě obyvatel severní části Bavorského lesa (současný stav)

86%
Ulrychová M.
Národopisná revue (Journal of Ethnology)
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2016
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vol. 26
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issue 3
201 - 213
EN
Especially in the last decade, one can notice an increasing popularity of the festive dress in Bavaria, which claims its allegiance to traditional rural and town clothing in terms of its cut, colours, decorations and particular accessories. The residents of the monitored location – an area of the Bavarian Forest – use the term Tracht for it. Because the phenomenon has drawn only little attention of specialized literature to date, the author relies on her long-time fieldwork that is based on participant observation and semi-structured interviews with local people. First, she tries to explain two basic used terms – Tracht and Dirndl, and continues with other garments after that. When describing men´s and women´s dress, she only sketches general and stabilized features because the limited range of this study does not allow her to probe different variants more deeply. These are not only a result of occasions on which the Tracht is worn, but also a consequence of fast changes in fashion as a result of fashion designers´ strategies. The author´s major focus is on the manner in which the Tracht carries out the function of a festive dress and club uniform. While its locally-representative function is nearly zero (except for music bands, the Tracht does not have any attributes to distinguish between inhabitants of particular villages and towns), the Tracht is an unambiguous indicator to define club affiliation. Because the northern part of the Bavarian Forest is a borderland bordering on the Czech Republic, the authors trie to point out mutual influences in terms of clothing. Czech residents do not wear the Tracht, however, they take over only everyday garments (e.g. the men like wearing the popular combination of a chequered shirt and jeans), maybe exceptionally the Murtalerhut, a felt hat with a wide brim, from their Bavarian neighbours. The afore-mentioned subject-matter calls for further continuing studies.
3

Rekonstruované časy. Případová studie k norskému lidovému oděvu

86%
Hol Haugen B. S.
Národopisná revue (Journal of Ethnology)
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2016
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vol. 26
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issue 3
213 - 225
EN
In many parts of Norway different folk dress developed during preindustrial time and some were still in use during 20th Century. Today they are sustained and in use for special occasions. Older folk dress is also revitalized as part of today’s cultural heritage. This paper presents the revival of folk dress in Norway and discusses how questions of time are represented in the work of revitalization. Folk dress of one particular area of western Norway serves as a case study for this survey. The main goal with this paper is to reveal how chronology and art history as well as trends and traditions are entangled in the complexities of folk dress.
4

K problematice údajného vlivu Charvátů dosídlených na jižní Moravu a rakouské Valticko na lidovou kulturu Podluží v 19. a ve 20. století

86%
Kašník F.
Národopisná revue (Journal of Ethnology)
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2015
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vol. 25
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issue 1
40 - 47
EN
The contribution deals with the Croatian population settled in South Moravia (Mikulov region) and Lesser Austria (Valtice region) at the time of Turkish incursions of the 16th century. In Moravia, the Croatians found their home in the villages of Jevišovka (former Frélichov, Frjélištorf), Dobré Pole (former Gutfjeld) and Nový Přerov (former Nova Prerava), in the environs of which only German inhabitants lived. Another group was settled 25 km further to the east, in the villages of Hlohovec, Charvátská Nová Ves and Poštorná, in the immediate neighbourhood of Czech-speaking inhabitants. In connection with national movement, Czech intellectuals critically evaluated the efforts of Austria to Germanize the Slavonic inhabitants living in the Empire, e.g. even the Croatians settled in the Valticko region. It was opened the issue of influence of the settled Croatians on folk culture in South Moravia (the ethnographic area of Podluží), in particular on men´s folk dress. A lot of ethnographers gave their opinion that Czech inhabitants took over some expressions of folk culture from the Croatians. Red trousers typical for men´s folk dress in the ethnographic area of Podluží since the mid-19th century until now are one of such examples. The author summarizes literature as well as written and iconographic sources concerning the above theme, showing that it was uniforms of Hungarian army and nobility that was a real model.
5

Black Shirt: An (Un)Known Garment Worn by Mountain Shepherds in the Western Carpathians

86%
Michalička V.
Národopisná revue (Journal of Ethnology)
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2023
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vol. 33
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issue 2
103 - 114
EN
The study focusses on black shirts, soaked with animal fat and smoked, worn by Carpathian shepherds in the 17th-19th centuries. The author focuses on sources from the area of the present-day Czech Republic, taking into consideration the wider context of the use of this garment also in the area of the present-day Poland and Slovakia. The chosen theme has been dealt with based on the study of period sources and professional literature as well as on a series of experiments aimed at the technique of making this shirt and at practical issues related to its common use. The functionality of this garment, which featured a special treatment −impregnation with animal fat and smoking − is addressed as well. Due to this treatment, the shirt was more resistant to moisture, cold, wind, and insects. The study also presents results of experimental research which explains the process of making the black shirts, confronting their real properties with historical records. In the conclusion, the author points out the pitfalls of experimental verification due to the unfamiliarity with detailed procedures and production customs, and opens up the possibility of further laboratory research in collaboration with technical disciplines.
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