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PL
Ideą przewodnią nowożytnych igrzysk olimpijskich organizowanych od 1896 r. jest łacińska maksyma Citius, Altius, Fortius. Wspinaczka sportowa to dyscyplina, w której owo szybciej, wyżej, mocniej jest uchwytne i w pełni realizowane. Działania na rzecz wprowadzenia wspinaczki sportowej do programu igrzysk olimpijskich czynione są od lat 80. XX w. Wcześniej jednak alpinizm, nie będąc dyscypliną olimpijską, był (często wbrew woli większości środowisk alpinistycznych) obecny na igrzyskach. Lata 80. XX wieku przyniosły intensywny rozwój wspinaczki sportowej i zawodów wspinaczkowych. W 1987 r. powołano Międzynarodowy Komitet Wspinaczki Zawodniczej, ujednolicono i sprecyzowano procedury przeprowadzania zawodów wspinaczkowych oraz uzgodniono strategię rozwoju wspinaczki sportowej z myślą o igrzyskach olimpijskich. W 1992 r. w Chambery zorganizowano zawody wspinaczkowe „Pro-Olympique”, których zadaniem była promocja wspinaczki jako przyszłej dyscypliny olimpijskiej. W 2007 r. we Frankfurcie nad Menem powołano do życia International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC). Dzięki staraniom IFSC, 12 lutego 2010 r. MKOl oficjalnie uznał wspinanie za dyscyplinę sportową. 28 września 2015 r. wspinaczkę wpisano również na listę dyscyplin oczekujących na ewentualne włączenie do programów igrzysk Tokio 2020. Na 129 Sesji Plenarnej MKOl w Rio 3 sierpnia 2016 r. wspinaczka sportowa została włączona do programu igrzysk olimpijskich w Tokio 2020. Włączenie wspinaczki do rodziny sportów olimpijskich to wielka szansa dla rozwoju tej spektakularnej dyscypliny i ukoronowanie wielu lat starań, podejmowanych przez stowarzyszenia i środowiska wspinaczkowe na całym świecie.
EN
The leading idea of new era of Olympics’ games organised since 1896 is Latin sentence Citius, Altius, Fortius. Sport climbing is a discipline, in which these faster, higher, stronger is perceptible and fully effected. Activities to include sports climbing into the Olympic Game program, has been realising since 80th of XX century. Before, alpinism which was not Olympic discipline, was frequently, against the willingness of the majority of alpinist societies, was present on Olympic Game. 80th in XX century came with intensive development of sports climbing and climbing competition. In 1987 International Sports Climbing Committee has been found, procedures of conducting of climbing competition have been unified and specified and agreed strategy of development of sports climbing in the consideration of Olympic Games. In 1992 in Chambery the climbing competition “Pro-Omypique” has been organized. In 2007 in Frankfurt the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) has been found. Thanks to the attempts of IFSC, 12th February 2010 the International Olympic Committee considered climbing as a sports discipline. Three years later climbing has been listed on the waiting list of eventual discipline at the program at the Tokyo Olympic Game in 2020. At the 129. Plenary session of the IOC in Rio, on August 3, 2016, sport climbing has been included to the Program of the Olympic Games in Tokyo 2020. Implementation of climbing into the Olympic Game program is a big chance for development of this spectacular discipline and capstone of many years’ attempts, which were done by climbing organizations and societies worldwide.
EN
Experiencing physical and mental boundaries has always been part of mountaineering. However, over the last 150 years we have witnessed a process in which, in climbers’ accounts, mountaineering and climbing become more and more important as liminal experiences. While in the so-called “golden age” of mountaineering (1850–1865) the authors focused on the first ascents of well-known summits and during the “heroic mountaineering” stage (1930s) they described primarily traverses of increasingly difficult routes, what comes to the fore in contemporary autobiographical works of professional climbers is the representation of subjective and individual liminal experiences. In recent autobiographies climbing gains importance as an individual quest for experiences and is presented as a form of self-fulfilment: liminal experiences of climbers become moments shaping their identity. The process is reflected in the style of climbing, which has evolved from collective expeditions to radical solo climbs. Speed or free solo climbs are an example of such an individualistic approach, in which grappling with oneself gets at least as much attention as grappling with the mountain. The authors of the article explore, from the perspective of literary studies and sociology, the representation of liminal experiences as identity-shaping moments in contemporary autobiographical works by Lynn Hill (Climbing Free, 2002), Catherine Destivelle (Ascensions, 2003), Alex Honnold (Alone on the Wall, 2015) and Andy Kirkpatrick (Psychovertical, 2008).
EN
Experiencing physical and mental boundaries has always been part of mountaineering. However, over the last 150 years we have witnessed a process in which, in climbers’ accounts, mountaineering and climbing become more and more important as liminal experiences. While in the so-called “golden age” of mountaineering (1850–1865) the authors focused on the first ascents of well-known summits and during the “heroic mountaineering” stage (1930s) they described primarily traverses of increasingly difficult routes, what comes to the fore in contemporary autobiographical works of professional climbers is the representation of subjective and individual liminal experiences. In recent autobiographies climbing gains importance as an individual quest for experiences and is presented as a form of self-fulfilment: liminal experiences of climbers become moments shaping their identity. The process is reflected in the style of climbing, which has evolved from collective expeditions to radical solo climbs. Speed or free solo climbs are an example of such an individualistic approach, in which grappling with oneself gets at least as much attention as grappling with the mountain. The authors of the article explore, from the perspective of literary studies and sociology, the representation of liminal experiences as identity-shaping moments in contemporary autobiographical works by Lynn Hill (Climbing Free, 2002), Catherine Destivelle (Ascensions, 2003), Alex Honnold (Alone on the Wall, 2015) and Andy Kirkpatrick (Psychovertical, 2008).
PL
Artykuł koncentruje się na funkcjach estetycznych i ideologicznych tematyki górskiej i związanej z mieszkańcami gór obecnych w prozie Wojciecha Kuczoka, znanego pisarza, alpinisty i speleologa. Kultura górali tatrzańskich (język i zwyczaje) pojawia się już we wczesnych opowiadaniach Kuczoka i powraca w późniejszej twórczości (opowiadaniach, powieściach, esejach filmowych, formach autobiograficznych). Głównym tematem tekstu jest powieść Spiski. Przygody tatrzańskie (łącząca realizm z fantazją) i Poza światłem, pierwsze dzieło non-fiction Kuczoka, opisujące jego podróże po Polsce i za granicą, a także wyprawy w wysokie góry i do jaskiń.
EN
The article is an analysis of Adam Skoczylas’ Cztery dni słońca (Four Days of Sunshine) and Victor Saunders’ Elusive Summits, works that are part of mountain literature, the boundaries of which are set, on the one hand, by the unique context of writing involving a close relation between life and work; and on the other by unique reception involving a relation between the author and the reader based on shared experiences, on which this reception depends. The factor that became a condition for the emergence of such literature was a unique way of looking at the mountains, characteristic of mountaineers exploring the Tatras, the Alps and then also the Himalayas. It becomes a starting point for narrative as well as a condition for forming a reader group. A characteristic feature of the works discussed in the article is their narrative emphasising the intensity of sensations accompanying experiences in the mountains.
PL
Autor omawia problem etycznego wymiaru ryzyka, które towarzyszy większości dyscyplin sportowych. Ich uprawianie tylko wyjątkowo stwarza poważne problemy moralne. Z reguły stają się one środkiem służącym zdrowiu fizycznemu i duchowemu człowieka. Praktykowanie sportów ekstremalnych i sportów wysokiego ryzyka może służyć rozwojowi duchowemu i moralnemu człowieka. Musi ono jednak spełnić warunki ogólnego i specjalistycznego bezpieczeństwa oraz musi mu towarzyszyć gotowość rezygnacji z dalszej wspinaczki, kiedy realne zagrożenie przekracza roztropnie ocenione możliwości himalaisty.
EN
The author discusses the problem of the ethical dimension of risk that accompanies most of sports disciplines. Their practicing only exceptionally creates serious moral problems. As a rule, they become a means for human physical and spiritual health. Practicing extreme sports and high-risk sports can serve the spiritual and moral development of man. However, it must meet the requirements of general and specialist security and must be accompanied by readiness to resign from further climbing, when the real threat exceeds the prudently assessed climber's capabilities.
7
Content available remote

Zmierzch alpinizmu?

72%
Świat i Słowo
|
2013
|
vol. 11
|
issue 2(21)
225-234
EN
The essay presents the changes in Polish and world alpinism / Himalaya mountaineering perceived as a particular cultural practice. Commercialization of high-mountain mountaineering (symbolized by crowds of rich amateurs climbing the Mount Everest) and pursuing personal success at any price (the case of Polish Broad Pick winter expedition) lead to tragedies and erosion of ideology and ethos of this once elite sport. In spite of this high (and the highest) mountains remain an object of interest for professional alpinists and ever growing group of high-mountain tourists.
EN
The article is concerned with the writings of the Polish mountaineer, Tadeusz Piotrowski. The author considers the relationship between the experiences of vertical space, plot and subjectivity. He analyses Piotrowski’s writing, in an attempt at identifying characteristic elements of the climber’s discourse in the context of sincerity and autobiographical narrative. Tadeusz Piotrowski’s story is defined by modernity, accumulating in ‘the Self ’ the subsequent paradoxes resulting from contradictions within key concepts of truth, authenticity and sincerity. The climber’s discourse tries to reconcile the desire to repeat the vertical movement within textual representation, and the idiomatic expression of the subject. The text exposes the paradoxical status of the autobiography situated beyond truth and falsehood, while, at the same time, remaining the most effective tool for communicating mountaineering experiences.
EN
This article discusses the motifs of mountains and mountaineering in Zygmunt Haupt’s selected texts. The author analyzes how mountain spaces and experiences related to mountains are described, and also reflects on the scale of mountaineering fascinations. He examines whether inspirations suggested by Haupt may be used to reconstruct his hypothetical influences, thus proving that Haupt had a very good knowledge of professional articles and books on mountaineering. The article further demonstrates how Haupt combines the theme of mountains and the related new cultural practices, primarily climbing and mountaineering, with reflection on the processes which constitute modernity.
PL
Artykuł dotyczy wątków górskich i alpinistycznych w wybranych tekstach Zygmunta Haupta. Autor analizuje sposoby opisywania przestrzeni górskich i doświadczeń związanych z górami, a także rozważa skalę zainteresowania alpinizmem. Rozpatruje, czy podsuwane przez Haupta inspiracje mogą posłużyć za podstawę rekonstrukcji hipotetycznych wpływów i potwierdzać skalę znajomości fachowego piśmiennictwa góroznawczego. Przedstawia, w jaki sposób włączanie gór i związanych z nimi nowych praktyk kulturowych, przede wszystkim wspinaczki i alpinizmu, w obszar eksplorowanych przez Haupta tematów i problemów łączyło się z refleksją pisarza odnośnie do procesów fundujących nowoczesność.
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