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EN
In the 15th–16 th. centuries most of the cities and towns of Ukrainian lands, which were part of the Grand Duchy of Lithuania, were concentrated in Volyn land, where the geographical factor was quite favorable for social development. The cities, along with the castles, remained strategic frontiers of the military organization of the state, outpost of protection against external aggression, which required constant attention from the state. The spreading process of the craft separation from agriculture caused the need for sales markets and increased the demand for agricultural products. Due to the auspices policy there was a process of specialization of production, the changes took place in the structure of the of the population work, a shop handicraft and craft were developed , the number of urban population in general and the township in particular increased. The Magdeburg law was acrued to Volyn cities from Germany via Poland and Lithuania, when appropriate socio-economic and political conditions similar to those of Western Europe were created for this purpose. The transition of the cities’ administration to the Magdeburg law was a reflection of the process of the establishment of Slavic law in the West European lands in general, since it was being modified, in particular under the influence of German law. The introduction of the Magdeburg law in Volyn cities was expanded considering the national traditions of customary law; however, it was an original process that took place with considerable delay compared to the cities of Western Europe. The fate of Volyn cities in the context of their incorporation into the political-legal system of GDL was also determined by geostrategic and political factors that were in progress during 14th and 15th centuries – struggle for Volyn and Podillya between Lithuania and the Kingdom of Poland. The Magdeburg law became not only a means of modernizing of the public relations, but also the instrument of political influence of the Polish Crown, aimed at incorporating the Volyn and the Grand Duchy of Lithuania in general, into Poland. In this context, the socio-political conditions for granting Lutsk land a privilege on the Magdeburg law by the Polish King Władysław Jagailo on October 30, 1432 are indicative. The privilege of 1432 was unique among such acts, since it provided German law not to the city or to the burghers, but to all residents of Lutsk land. Apparently, this format had, above all, an important political significance – an attempt to attract Lutsk land to the Polish kingdom as closely as possible, its own economic component had been secondary, since in the privilege there were no specific indications as to the order of the organization of trades and fairs, the scope of the powers of Vogt, etc., which was obligatory component part of similar acts. The structure and functions of the local self-government bodies depended upon many factors, including statute of the cities: state-owned (grand-prince) or private-owned, privileged, or not, with full and incomplete Magdeburg law.
EN
The article presents an overview of a Warsaw walking outfit worn in the second half of 19 th century that would have been seen in popular socializing places such as The Saxon Gardens, The Swiss Valley, and The Royal Baths Park. At the time Warsaw was known as “The Paris of the North”, and drew inspiration from many fashion magazines in the West. This allowed the magazines to dictate the contemporary fashion trends, which were instantly followed by the Varsovian elite. The press shaped people’s tastes; it showed the way they should dress as well as it encouraged them to pay a visit to the nearest tailor; meanwhile the press always paid attention to the latest popular fashion trends. Indeed, the clothing have always played the part of transmitting information about its wearer, for example revealing his or hers social status. Therefore the outfit itself, or rather its display required certain places, as well as publicity and favourable circumstances in order to make a good impression with one’s garments. Not only the carnival festivals but also the Varsovian balls were opportunities to present one’s outfit in the best way. Furthermore, the Varsovian elite liked to regularly show off their fashionable clothes during their everyday strolls. All of a sudden, public parks, gardens or plazas were becoming the capital’s summer salons, as the women were demonstrating their elaborate gowns adorned with precious jewellery and fancy chapeaux. The men weren’t left behind either in this trend. Men’s cuts and colours of clothing or elegant top hats were an object of admiration as well. From the second half of the 19 th century the Varsowian press provides the prime source for such research: “Tygodnik Ilustrowany”, “Bluszcz”, “Kłosy”, “Tygodnik Mód”, “Kurier Warszawski” or “Świt” and memoirs concerning Warsaw. The historical and cultural issues of Warsaw were dissussed on the grounds of works of a.o. Areksander Gieysztor, Janusz Durko, Karol Mórawski or Jan Bystroń. Any other information about social life in Warsaw was taken from the 19 th century guide books of Warsaw.
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