Search results

1

Between Persistence and Variability. Fashion in Aesthetic Perspective

100%

Głutkowska - Polniak A.

Anthropos?

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2018

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issue 27 W ruchu

124-136

EN

Culture carries both stable and variable components, tradition and progress. A modern man is also situated between persistence and variability as his life is a process of transformation. Such a situation is not easy for him. Fashion as an aesthetic phenomenon, cultural practice and a way of participating in this culture gives the modern man at least the pretence of abolishing the conflict. The conflict which is not only between persistence and variability but also the feeling of community and individuality or tradition and progress. It creates the ground to reconciliation. Fashion performs different functions but nowadays one of the most significant seems to be the aesthetic one which is connecting people but not enslaving them.

2

Chiara Ferragni — marka luksusowa i ikona współczesnego świata mody. Studium przypadku

80%

Kochanek P.

Dziennikarstwo i Media

|

2018

|

vol. 10

61-74

EN

The article features a case study of Chiara Ferragni, who is the world’s most popular fashion blogger and influencer of our times. Based on a case study from Harvard Business School, I explain how she and her team monetize her blog and Instagram profile. Moreover, I show how they manage their brand which now includes three branches: The Blonde Salad Magazine, Chiara Ferragni Collection and Chiara Ferragni Celebrity. The business model which they used in the past has helped Chiara Ferragni to achieve her main goal which was the transformation into a luxury brand and to design her own collection of clothes.

3

„My tu nie mówimy, ino godumy i jesteśmy z tego dumni”. O tym, dlaczego gwary wielkopolskie przetrwały (na przykładzie języka mieszkańców wsi powiatu międzychodzkiego)

80%

Cemborowski B.

Adeptus

|

2015

|

issue 6

50-61

EN

The aim of this article is to respond to the question: Why have the dialects of the Province of Greater Poland survived while the dialects from other parts of Poland are in decline? The analytical material relates to the statements of the users of this dialect who live in the western parts of Greater Poland (Międzychodzki district). It was collected during fieldwork in the villages of the Międzychodzki district between 2012 and 2015. The research methodology was based on autobiographical interviews, questionnaires and participant observations. Three important factors which contributed to the survival of the dialects of Greater Poland are: the history of this region, the identity of its people and the fashion for dialect use among the younger generation of Greater Poland’s inhabitants.

PL

Celem artykułu jest odpowiedź na pytanie, dlaczego gwary wielkopolskie przetrwały, podczas gdy w innych regionach Polski zauważalna jest tendencja do ich zaniku. Materiałem wykorzystanym w analizie są wypowiedzi mieszkańców wsi powiatu międzychodzkiego, którzy posługują się gwarą. Materiał został zebrany podczas badań terenowych w latach 2012–2015 za pomocą takich metod, jak wywiad autobiograficzny, ankiety i obserwacja uczestnicząca. Trzema istotnymi czynnikami, które wpłynęły na to, że gwary przetrwały w języku respondentów, są: historia, identyfikacja i narastająca wśród młodego pokolenia moda na mówienie gwarą.

4

„My tu nie mówimy, ino godumy i jesteśmy z tego dumni”. O tym, dlaczego gwary wielkopolskie przetrwały (na przykładzie języka mieszkańców wsi powiatu międzychodzkiego)

80%

Cemborowski B.

Adeptus

|

2015

|

issue 6

EN

On why have the dialects of the Province of Greater Poland survived (an example, the language of Międzychodzki district inhabitants)The aim of this article is to respond to the question: Why have the dialects of the Province of Greater Poland survived while the dialects from other parts of Poland are in decline? The analytical material relates to the statements of the users of this dialect who live in the western parts of Greater Poland (Międzychodzki district). It was collected during fieldwork in the villages of the Międzychodzki district between 2012 and 2015. The research methodology was based on autobiographical interviews, questionnaires and participant observations. Three important factors which contributed to the survival of the dialects of Greater Poland are: the history of this region, the identity of its people and the fashion for dialect use among the younger generation of Greater Poland’s inhabitants. „My tu nie mówimy, ino godumy i jesteśmy z tego dumni”. O tym, dlaczego gwary wielkopolskie przetrwały (na przykładzie języka mieszkańców wsi powiatu międzychodzkiego) Celem artykułu jest odpowiedź na pytanie, dlaczego gwary wielkopolskie przetrwały, podczas gdy w innych regionach Polski zauważalna jest tendencja do ich zaniku. Materiałem wykorzystanym w analizie są wypowiedzi mieszkańców wsi powiatu międzychodzkiego, którzy posługują się gwarą. Materiał został zebrany podczas badań terenowych w latach 2012–2015 za pomocą takich metod, jak wywiad autobiograficzny, ankiety i obserwacja uczestnicząca. Trzema istotnymi czynnikami, które wpłynęły na to, że gwary przetrwały w języku respondentów, są: historia, identyfikacja i narastająca wśród młodego pokolenia moda na mówienie gwarą.

5

Fast Fashion - Updating the Exclusivity of Fashion

80%

Orzeł B.

Anthropos?

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2019

|

issue 28 Elitarne

79-88

EN

In the following article the author considers the meaning of the cathegories of exclusivity, fashion, trend and beauty in the face of fast fashion and consumption. The first part concentrates on the explanation of main concepts and the status of trend ("everything can be fashionable"), "the issue of buying". Afterwards the author analyses the idea of exclusivity and its further connections with aesthetics (considering the popularity of "ugly fashion"). In the light of these circumstances it will be necessary to reassess our picture of obsolescent exclusivity, it will be also important to appreciate the role of sustainable ways of "consuming" fashion.

6

Garderoba polskich elegantek w XVIII wieku

70%

Prus M.

Białostockie Teki Historyczne

|

2015

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vol. Białostockie Teki Historyczne, 2015, tom 13

EN

The article is concerned with the wardrobe of Polish ladies in the XVIII century, presenting fabrics, gowns, sportswear, coats, clothing elements and accessories. Polish fashionable ladies were highly influenced by French and English patterns. Elegant ladies of the XVIII century could be recognized by wearing corsets and onerous panniers. The XVIII century is characterized by two main fashion trends. At the beginning gowns were richly decorated and made from heavy fabrics. Although they looked showy, they were uncomfortable and unhealthy, due to tight corsets. With time gowns became simpler and more comfortable. Flamboyant and heavy gowns yielded to light and gauzy ones. The new trend in fashion was highly appreciated because of the smaller amount of fabrics indispensable to sew a dress and a reasonable choice of accessories. Polish ladies’ wardrobe was complemented by coats used in accordance with the season and the weather. Coats like jupka (sleeveless tunic), kontusik (winter fur-lined coat), salopa (coat with a cape) or caraco were not as heavily influenced by western patterns as the other elements of Polish ladies’ wardrobe. Decorative elements, such as laces, fichu, bavettes, corsets and panniers added to the charm of the ladies who wore them. Costly and showy clothing required elegant and expensive accessories. Polish ladies spent a fortune on booties, stockings, fans, jewelry, bags and hats. Ostentatiously expensive and fashionable outfits were a sign of wealth and social standing. They constituted a lifelong investment and were inherited by next generations.

7

Waterpipe. The rethinking of an ethnical practice’s meaning in city

70%

Nagy V.

Prace Etnograficzne

|

2013

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vol. 41

|

issue 3

211–221

EN

The paper attempts to examine the multicultural society of Budapest in the context of the Oriental tradition brought by the Arab, Turkish and Persian immigrants. The author presents the smoking of waterpipe as an object of a transfer from immigrants custom into general fashion. According to the author, by using sheesha the transmitters make effort to create familiarity and feeling like at home. Nevertheless, this practice dislodged from the original context (or users) and became a fashionable mean to create or to support social circles. This is a good example of general question of a process by which ethnic traditions and customs become parts of life in multicultural environment of big cities nowadays.

8

Staphorst na wybiegu. Inspiracja tradycyjnymi strojami holenderskimi w modzie współczesnej jako forma obcowania z lokalną tradycją

70%

Kargól M.

Rocznik Antropologii Historii

|

2013

|

issue 2(5), Genealogie kultury

277–290

XX

Staphorst is a Dutch town inhabited by a traditional and closed community. Its inhabitants remain faithful to Calvinist religious values. A group of several hundred women still wears local traditional costumes as everyday clothing. In 2011, the designer Ricardo Ramos created a fashion collection inspired by costumes from Staphorst. The presence of Ramos and the success of his collection on catwalks around the world resulted in the inhabitants of Staphorst making their own cultural initiative. It consisted in creating contemporary outfits inspired by the local garments. For them, it was a way to experience the local tradition by means of artistic activities, and a form of participation in the local community life. A reconstruction of this case was possible due to participant observation, interviews, press and iconographic materials. The case was interpreted on the basis of the theories of experience and reflexive nostalgia. The main topic of reflection is tradition and the way in which it is interpreted and experienced by the local community.

9

Ciało, moda i tozsamosc kobiety epoki wiktorianskiej – dyskursy piekna i przemocy

70%

Gromkowska-Melosik A.

Kultura-Społeczeństwo-Edukacja

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2012

|

vol. 2

17-30

EN

The article is devoted to the analysis of the dominant ideal of beauty in the Victorian period. The author defi nes mechanisms of repression and symbolic violence over the body of the Victorian upper-class woman, connected with the phenomenon of social control over the woman’s body and identity. The author assumes that the desire to achieve physical beauty has always been a source of a biographical experience that was constitutive for a woman, a source of a separate identity for her in comparison with a man. The historical changes of the ideals of the beautiful body are expressive of the complex interactions between the social roles of women and the dominant ideology of femininity as well as scientifi c and medical knowledge.

10

MODA JAKO WYRAZ PRZEMIAN DUCHOWYCH I KULTUROWYCH WSPÓŁCZESNEGO CZŁOWIEKA? SYMBOLIKA RELIGIJNA W WYBRANYCH SESJACH FOTOGRAFICZNYCH I POKAZACH MODY

70%

Faber D.

Studia Humanistyczne AGH

|

2012

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vol. 11

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issue 1

EN

The main purpose of this article is to explore religious inspirations which appear in contemporary fashion and to reveal the differences in introducing particular religions.Fashion industry uses eastern religious motifs to strengthen the authority of the fashion world, on the other hand, associates naked female bodies with Christian or Muslim symbolism as a refusal of religious dictation. In the article, it is proved that religious inspirations appearing in fashion became a sign of a wider phenomena, which is related to the process of secularization and at the same time exploration of new forms of spirituality. Also addresses the question of fashion which exposes the repressive character of religion which intends to control human impulses and sexuality, as well as the problem of commercialization of eastern practices. Semiotic analysis of photography allowed me to test and prove the hypotheses raised earlier. This research method recognizes not only what the literal layer of photography is but also the whole cultural context which includes artist, his work and receiver.

11

Śmieci modne, czyli wykorzystanie produktów ekologicznych i recyclingowych w modzie i designie

70%

Frączkiewicz M.

Studia Etnologiczne i Antropologiczne

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2017

|

vol. 17

127-145

EN

Caring for the environment is no longer limited only to waste segregation. Ecology has become a fashion statement, wich concerns many areas of life. Fashion and utility designers, as well as consumers use more and more materials, which have been considered garbage, not only giving them the proverbial “second life”, but also multiplying their original value. The purpose of this article is to describe the range of possibilities, which use recycled products in fashion and design gives, to the reader. I will also try to explain the most important terms as upcycling or downcycling. I will present the position of a number of Polish researchers towards contemporary eco-fashion.

12

Wielkomiejskie życie Drugiej Rzeczpospolitej w polskim filmie fabularnym okresu międzywojennego. Wstęp do tematu

70%

Otto W.

Images. The International Journal of European Film, Performing Arts and Audiovisual Communication

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2013

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vol. 12

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issue 21

291-305

EN

Polish feature films from the interwar period are to a great extent a reflection of the reality of that time. This can be seen mainly in the presentation of particular architectural objects and fashion from that time. The films are also a source of knowledge about the problems of the time: the impoverishment of the society, economic crisis, prostitution, etc. These pictures reflect reality, yet they are subject to numerous transformations, as the result of the conventions of the chosen genre.

PL

Big city life in the Second Commonwealth of Poland in Polish interwar feature films. An Introduction Polish feature films from the interwar period are to a great extent a reflection of the reality of that time. This can be seen mainly in the presentation of particular architectural objects and fashion from that time. The films are also a source of knowledge about the problems of the time: the impoverishment of the society, economic crisis, prostitution, etc. These pictures reflect reality, yet they are subject to numerous transformations, as the result of the conventions of the chosen genre.

13

PODRÓŻE REALNE I WIRTUALNE A UWARUNKOWANIA RYNKU MODY, CZYLI KREOWANIE GLOBALNEGO GUSTU A TRADYCJONALIZM KULTUR LOKALNYCH

61%

Januszewicz S., Sosnowska M.

Zeszyty Naukowe. Turystyka i Rekreacja

|

2014

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issue 1(13)

93-109

PL

Silny wpływ tradycjonalizmu kultury lokalnej na nieustannie warunkujący się rynek mody sprawił, że jego elementy zostały wcielone w życie i mają na celu sprostanie wymaganiom klientów. Zostały one rozpowszechnione przez człowieka znajdującego się w ciągłej podróży – realnej, rzeczywistej i wirtualnej, nierzeczywistej. Poprzez ową kolej rzeczy tworzy się globalna kultura, która zapoczątkowuje powstanie globalnego gustu. Celem procesu jest ujednolicenie mody i kultury do stanu uniwersalnego dla większości obywateli. Czy jednak sytuacja ta będzie właściwa? Co stanie się z indywidualizmem człowieka? Czy kultura lokalna całkowicie zaniknie? Oto pytania, na które starały się odpowiedzieć autorki artykułu.

EN

Strong influence of local culture’s traditionalism continually conditioning the fashion market means that its elements have been put into life and the aim is to cope the demands of customers. They have been distributed by a human located in a continuous journey – real and virtual – unreal. Through this way creates a global culture, which initiates the formation of the global taste. The purpose of the process is the unification of fashion and culture to the state universal for most citizens. Would this situation be proper? What happens to human individuality? Is the local culture completely disappear? Here’s the questions that answer give the article authors.

14

Decatur: Výskum Paula F. Lazarsfelda a Elihu Katza o názorovom vodcovstve v oblastiach marketingu, módy, vecí verejných a návštevnosti kina

61%

Kollár R.

Historická sociologie (Historical Sociology)

|

2015

|

vol. 1

47-73

EN

Decatur: The Research of Paul F. Lazarsfeld and Elihu Katz on Opinion Leadership in Areas of Marketing, Fashion, Public Affairs and Movie Going

15

Płeć mody. Kształtowanie się estetyki płci na podstawie francuskich publikacji modowych z lat 1768–1793

61%

Juranek G.

Orbis Linguarum

|

2018

|

issue 50

375-387

EN

Gender of fashion. The formation of gender aesthetics based on the French fashion publications from 1768–1793 The aim of this article is to show the transformation in the perception of the relation between fashion and gender in 1768–1793, based on French fashion publications from that time: Courier de la mode (1768–1770), Galerie des modes (1778–1785) and Magasin des modes nouvelles (1785–1793). These three publications depict a gradual transition from the perception of clothes as a social status symbol to the expression of gender. Wherefore a common esthetics of both sexes, natural for the time when it was the aristocratic taste that was prevailing, began to be considered as inappropriate, which was characteristic for the bourgeois’ way of fashion perception..

16

Мода та її вплив на поведінку споживачів

61%

Khomutova O., Terzyan J.

Path of Science

|

2016

|

vol. 2

|

issue 5(10)

1.28-1.35

UK

У статті розглядаються питання, пов’язані з впливом моди на поведінку споживачів. Значимість цього дослідження обумовлена, насамперед тим, що в сучасному світі наростає процес розвитку суспільства споживання і саме мода є соціальним регулятором людської діяльності. Метою даної статті є з’ясування, який саме вплив здійснює мода на поведінку споживачів (негативний чи позитивний), і чи є вона засобом індивідуалізації людини. Результати дослідження показали, що слідування моді виявляє ставлення споживача до суспільства, до навколишнього світу, до самого себе. З одного боку, особистість хоче зберегти свою індивідуальність, з іншого боку, прагне ідентифікувати себе з іншими членами суспільства. Приховане бажання підкорятися моді бореться з прагненням бути незалежним від неї, не наслідувати інших, а відрізнятися від них.

EN

The questions related to the influence of fashion on consumer behavior are researched in the article. The importance of this research is conditioned, first of all, by the fact, that in the modern world the process of the development of the society of consumption is growing, and it is fashion that has become the social regulator of human activity. The aim of this article is to find out, what influence fashion produces on the behavior of consumers (negative or positive), and whether it is a means of human individualization. The research results show, that following fashion demonstrates the attitude of a consumer to society, to the surrounding world, to himself. On the one hand, a person wants to preserve his or her individuality, on the other hand, strives to identify himself with other members of society. The hidden desire to submit to the fashion contests the aspiration to be independent of it, not to imitate others, but to be different from them.

17

Portrait of the All-American Girl in Time: The Contradictions Between 1950s Gender Ideology and Style in Serenteen Magazine

61%

LEWANDOWSKI T.

Stylistyka

|

2007

|

vol. 16

455-464

EN

“Portrait of the All-American Girl in Time: The Contradictions Between 1950s Gender Ideology and Style in Seventeen Magazine, by Tadeusz Lewandowski, examines the ideał of adolescent femininity constructed by Seventeen magazine in the decade of the 1950s. Seventeen, First published in 1944, was the first periodical directed at teenage girls during the postwar era, and has until today remained the most popular. From its immediate in- ception during World War II it promoted a vision of the American girl as independent, and spoke out against gender inequality, much in keeping with the war emergency govem- ment propaganda of the time. However, by the 1950s Seventeen had been transformed from an organ that endorsed the emancipation of women from traditional gender roles to one that fully promoted the role of housewife as the single legitimate goal for young women. This was in accordance with the prevailing theories that emerged after the war as to women’s natural inclination to domesticity and motherhood, and the feminine ideał that appeared with it. To this, Seventeen added a consciously constructed ideał of adolescent femininity that its readers were expected to conform to, existing within the confines of a larger gender ideology that placed boys in a dominant position and encouraged physical beautification and allure. This paper explores Seventeen ’s adolescent feminine ideał and its roots, and also examines the contradictions between its emphasis on chastity and inno- cence, and the sexually charged clothing and make up styles that young women were urged to adopt within Seventeen 's pages.

18

Wysokie obcasy i konstrukcje tożsamości kobiet. Dynamika asymetrii płciowej, seksualności i emancypacji

61%

Gromkowska-Melosik A.

Studia Edukacyjne

|

2019

|

issue 52

61-86

EN

The article is devoted to the role of high heels in the construction of feminine identity. The various contexts of the main problem are analysed. The first one refers to the use of high heels as a confirmation of men’s domination over the feminine body, and identity. The second one is connected with sexual connotations of high heels. And the third one with the paradoxical use of the high heels as a source of women’s emancipation. The main thesis of the article is based on the assumption that every, even smallest feminine (or masculine) thing is involved into contradictory values and practical consequences.

19

London’s Suffragettes, Votes for Women, and Fashion

61%

Kociołek K.

Anglica. An International Journal of English Studies

|

2018

|

issue 27/1

81-95

XX

Suffragettes’ militant campaigns for voting rights are commonly dissociated from fashion, yet, in fact clothing and accessories were widely used by Emmeline Pankhurst and her fellow activists to gain visibility and increase public support for the suffrage movement. As commented by Katrina Rolley (1990), the suffragettes were frequently confronted with unfavourable representation of themselves in the press. Yet, thanks to their distinctive use of fashion, as observed by Paula Bartley (2002), the so called “Coronation Procession” held on 17 June 1911 in London was “one of the most colourful and spectacular of all the women’s suffrage demonstrations” (122‒123). Because there is little research on the importance of fashion in public space and the relationship between fashion and the women’s movement, the objective of the article is to show how sartorial practices of suffragettes countered their negative representation in the press. By applying elements of Cognitive Metaphor Theory to selected political cartoons by William Kerridge Haselden in the Daily Mirror, and fashion advertisements in Votes for Women magazine, the article demonstrates that the suffragettes used fashion in order to both increase their public visibility and to conform to normative femininity.

20

Moda i uroda – kobieta a współczesne strategie tożsamościowe w kontekście analizy wybranych przekazów telewizyjnych

61%

Powierska A.

Media – Kultura – Komunikacja Społeczna

|

2013

|

issue 9

59-71

EN

Disciplining of the body, consumption and the following of the models promoted by the media – these are the three identity strategies that share a dominant position in postmodernism. The influence that is exerted by the media contributes to the variability and the multiplication of identity. In this respect, the key factors that constitute womanhood are fashion and beauty. Television programmes for women define a certain canon of beauty, one which they present in terms of an obligation or an imperative. Through her looks, a woman is to construct her own identity patterned on the ideal promoted by the media. However, the analysis of selected media messages shows that this construct is not an authentic one and that to a large extent it becomes merely a copy of the stereotypes prevailing in popular culture. The identity itself is then reduced to the outward appearance alone. The purpose of this article is to indicate how the selected TV materials from “Dzieńdobry TVN” and “Pytanie na Śniadanie” are part of a discussion on contemporary identity strategies.

Refine search results

Between Persistence and Variability. Fashion in Aesthetic Perspective

Chiara Ferragni — marka luksusowa i ikona współczesnego świata mody. Studium przypadku

„My tu nie mówimy, ino godumy i jesteśmy z tego dumni”. O tym, dlaczego gwary wielkopolskie przetrwały (na przykładzie języka mieszkańców wsi powiatu międzychodzkiego)

„My tu nie mówimy, ino godumy i jesteśmy z tego dumni”. O tym, dlaczego gwary wielkopolskie przetrwały (na przykładzie języka mieszkańców wsi powiatu międzychodzkiego)

Fast Fashion - Updating the Exclusivity of Fashion

Garderoba polskich elegantek w XVIII wieku

Waterpipe. The rethinking of an ethnical practice’s meaning in city

Staphorst na wybiegu. Inspiracja tradycyjnymi strojami holenderskimi w modzie współczesnej jako forma obcowania z lokalną tradycją

Ciało, moda i tozsamosc kobiety epoki wiktorianskiej – dyskursy piekna i przemocy

MODA JAKO WYRAZ PRZEMIAN DUCHOWYCH I KULTUROWYCH WSPÓŁCZESNEGO CZŁOWIEKA? SYMBOLIKA RELIGIJNA W WYBRANYCH SESJACH FOTOGRAFICZNYCH I POKAZACH MODY

Śmieci modne, czyli wykorzystanie produktów ekologicznych i recyclingowych w modzie i designie

Wielkomiejskie życie Drugiej Rzeczpospolitej w polskim filmie fabularnym okresu międzywojennego. Wstęp do tematu

PODRÓŻE REALNE I WIRTUALNE A UWARUNKOWANIA RYNKU MODY, CZYLI KREOWANIE GLOBALNEGO GUSTU A TRADYCJONALIZM KULTUR LOKALNYCH

Decatur: Výskum Paula F. Lazarsfelda a Elihu Katza o názorovom vodcovstve v oblastiach marketingu, módy, vecí verejných a návštevnosti kina

Płeć mody. Kształtowanie się estetyki płci na podstawie francuskich publikacji modowych z lat 1768–1793

Мода та її вплив на поведінку споживачів

Portrait of the All-American Girl in Time: The Contradictions Between 1950s Gender Ideology and Style in Serenteen Magazine

Wysokie obcasy i konstrukcje tożsamości kobiet. Dynamika asymetrii płciowej, seksualności i emancypacji

London’s Suffragettes, Votes for Women, and Fashion

Moda i uroda – kobieta a współczesne strategie tożsamościowe w kontekście analizy wybranych przekazów telewizyjnych