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EN
In the Internet society, we are accustomed to the originators of creative works asserting strong protection of their output. Similarly, we witness extremely casual appropriation of works that is easier than ever to discover. Fashion products are an interesting case in this regard – through the relatively short history of the industry, protection of works has tended to be quite loose. Until recently, the consequences of copying in the fashion sector were not particularly serious, but the emergence of the connected society and the increased speed and scale of this copying threaten to cause more noticeable damage. The awareness that new threats call for a more serious approach to protection of creations requires examination of how and whether the familiar principles of copyright law can be applied to fashion designs and products, and to what extent. This paper outlines the background to such protections in the fashion industry, including examples of both strong and relaxed approaches by industry players. There is a brief presentation of case law that demonstrates how copyright principles can be applied to fashion, while also noting the role of society in applying the norms that determine the extent to which laws, once written, can actually be applied.
PL
W artykule przeprowadzono analizę głównych problemów przemysłu tekstylno-odzieżowego obejmujących społeczno-ekonomiczne aspekty jego funkcjonowania oraz wskazano przykłady działań, które przybliżają tę branżę do zrównoważonego rozwoju. Zwrócono uwagę m.in. na outsourcing produkcji odzieży i wyrobów tekstylnych oraz związany z nim problem niskiego poziomu wynagrodzeń pracowników, nawet poniżej 50% wartości godnej płacy, a także niebezpieczne dla zrównoważonego rozwoju podejście do produkcji i konsumpcji wyrobów określane jako fast fashion. W opracowaniu podano przykłady działań ukierunkowanych na osiągnięcie równowagi w obszarze społeczno-ekonomicznym, polegających m.in. na podejmowaniu wielostronnych i samodzielnych inicjatyw firm odzieżowych w celu poprawy warunków płacowych, respektowania praw pracowniczych i zapewnienia bezpiecznych warunków pracy, a także propagowania ruchu slow fashion, stanowiącego odpowiedź na dominujący konsumpcjonizm.
EN
The article analyses the key problems facing the textile and clothing industry, including social and economic aspects of its functioning, and puts forward steps that could be taken to bring the industry closer to sustainable development. The issues discussed include outsourcing of the clothing and textiles production, salaries that can be 50% below a living wage, and fast fashion, which endangers the sustainable development approach to the production and consumption of textile products. The paper provides examples of initiatives aimed at achieving balance in areas including multilateral agreements, independent initiatives among clothing companies to improve pay conditions, respect for employee rights and ensuring safe working conditions, and also the popularisation of slow fashion movement, a response to the dominant phenomenon of consumerism.
EN
Theoretical background: The worldwide fashion business has confronted the demand to transit from a linear to a circular business model that involves a series of fundamental alterations to the hitherto highly efficient strategies. As a consequence, a conceptual issue concerning fashion brand value creation has emerged. This applies notably to luxury, premium and fast fashion brands. Satisfying the expectations of customers and stakeholders should cease to be simply a matter of manufacturing a varied and impressive product line, since it has to be both sustainable and sensitive to the emergent requirements of the natural and social environment. Along with the aforementioned challenges, the key messages conveyed by brands through the marketing communication are also undergoing a transformation. Purpose of the article: To present the perspectives on building fashion brand equity in a circular economy, including risks and opportunities. Research methods: A review of scientific and specialised studies, selected using specific keywords, was undertaken. Data sources included academic resources: books, articles, market data (e.g. McKinsey & Company) and statistics published on the Statista platform, as well as specialised resources: expert articles, reports from organisations approaching the issue under research (e.g. EU, UN, Fashion Revolution, the Ellen MacArthur Foundation, etc.). The search area was composed of electronic resources: licensed, open access websites and topic-related websites. The aim of the data analysis was to systematise background knowledge through an inductive method. Main findings: 1. The fashion business needs a change of mission, vision and strategy along with cooperation and coopetition among brands of the luxury goods, mass goods and organic MSMEs markets within its ecosystems in order to achieve the expected brand value. 2. The implementation of circular economy model in the fashion business implies the necessity to restrict overproduction and overconsumption of clothes and accessories at the same time as utilising sustainable raw materials and production technologies. Furthermore, it requires the dissemination of the slow fashion model, which incorporates the reuse of clothes by other users (rental of clothes, second hand, upcycling). 3. Change of consumer behaviour, popularisation of research findings and expertise from independent organizations is a factor stimulating fashion brands to act towards a circular economy in order to maintain high brand value.
EN
The fashion industry has long been known as one of the most polluting industries in the world. The urgent need to improve the current critical situation has given rise to a number of global initiatives, organisations and movements that highlight and at the same time, are involved in the sustainability of the fashion industry. As pressure from consumers and businesses is constantly growing, fast fashion brands are introducing their own sustainable fashion collections which, however, are likely to deceive consumers and, when combined with green marketing, are merely used just to reach their business goals. Environmental education as a key determinant is the way to eliminate deception and properly assess messages by consumers. The main goal of the study is, through neuromarketing research, to define the impact of the studied sample of informed and uninformed consumers from Generations Y and Z when it comes to customer loyalty to the marketing communication of fast fashion brands.
EN
The article covers the study of the biggest and strongest world companies with the best supply chains. The reason is that nowadays unique supply chain can be competitive advantage for the enterprise. Strong supply chain can help to minimize costs, reach new customers, maximize profit, etc. In the article collaboration of the supply chain and its performance drivers (production, inventory, location, transportation and information) is performed; strengths and trends that can affect supply chains in the future are defined. Based on ranking results of Gartner, Inc. 2017 supply chain leaders in the world are highlighted. In 2017 such companies as Unilever, McDonald’s, Inditex had the best supply chains, and perennial supply chain leader Amazon has become “supply chain master”. According to the supply chains’ analysis (Amazon, Inditex (brand Zara) and Unilever) it was defined that each company builds its own supply chain, which is based on specific key elements. So, for example, for Amazon the most important elements of supply chain are warehousing, products’ distribution, own logistics, own production; Zara while constructing its supply chain focuses on such key elements: combination of manufacturer and retailer functions, fast response to trends, low inventory level, environmental responsibility, products’ distribution; Unilever bases its supply chain on such elements as sustainable power utilization, environmental responsibility, strategic partnerships all across the world, own logistics, blockchain development, supply chain transparency and products’ distribution.
EN
Research background: Faced with multiple media scandals concerning the pollution resulting from manufacturing activities, and encouraging the overconsumption of clothing, international fast fashion retailers have often had to resort to the elaboration and implementation of sustainable strategies aimed at environmental protection and reducing resource consumption. Generating customer satisfaction and loyalty depends increasingly on the extent to which retailers manage to employ socio-environmental responsibility besides the traditional retail store attributes. The purpose of this article: The objective of the paper is to evaluate the influence of consumer-oriented store attributes in generating satisfaction and loyalty towards the fast fashion store, highlighting the influence of socio-environmental responsibility on the two constructs. Methods: Based on the literature review, a conceptual model considering the effects of stores' attributes on store satisfaction and store loyalty and influenced by socio-environmental responsibility is proposed. Data were collected with the help of face-to-face administrated questionnaires before the outbreak of the COVID-19 pandemic in an emerging market (Romania). The data were analyzed via structural equation modeling in SmartPLS, for the three considered consumer generations: Generation X, Millennials and Generation Z. Findings & value added: For all consumer generations, all store attributes contribute to the direct generation of fast fashion store satisfaction and store loyalty; nevertheless, the intensity varies in levels of significance. Socio-environmental responsibility does not significantly determine store satisfaction, but does have a strong influence on fast fashion store loyalty. The results detailed according to the generations indicate a similar situation: each store attribute influences the satisfaction of one or other generation, apart from socio-environmental responsibility. This work makes an essential contribution to the extension of the generational theory, highlighting the various individualities, perceptions, and behaviors. This cross-generational research broadens knowledge on how different consumer generations behave when shopping from fast fashion stores. The research also extends the S-O-R model, which is used to understand the relationship between store attributes (stimulus), consumer satisfaction (organism), and consumer loyalty (response) towards fast fashion stores.
EN
The themes to be raised in the article concern the changes in the clothing industry, which is one of the most harmful to the environment. I will describe how designers, artists, technologists, etc., are responding to the crisis of the industry and the social needs generated by the shape of the modern world (including the pandemic). The clothing industry, fashion and clothing are inalienable elements of people’s everyday life, and they also combine aspects such as art, design, science and innovation. Looking at developments in this area will help better write possible future scenarios.
PL
Artykuł porusza temat przemian zachodzących w branży odzieżowej, będącej jedną z najbardziej szkodliwych branż dla środowiska naturalnego. Opisane zostaną sposoby odpowiadania projektantów/artystów/technologów itd. na kryzys tej branży oraz potrzeby społeczne generowane przez kształt współczesnego świata (w tym pandemię). Branża odzieżowa, moda, ubiór – są to elementy niezbywalne w codzienności człowieka, dodatkowo łączą one w sobie aspekty, takie jak: sztuka, design, nauka, innowacje. Przyglądanie się zmianom w tej dziedzinie pozwoli lepiej pisać możliwe scenariusze przyszłości.
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