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EN
This paper takes a novel approach to exploring the relationship between fashion salons and sound films in making the image of the modern woman in the 1930s. In this period, liberal cultural tendencies contradicted the increasingly authoritarian political trends in Central Europe. In Hungary, sound films transformed the fashion industry, and fashion salons were quick to respond by creating new clothing for the modern women. This paper investigates the figure of the modern woman as it appeared in newspapers, fashion magazines, and sound films. The type of independent, purposeful woman shown in the films, with her confidence, fashionable costumes, and romance, became an ideal for young women. As dressmakers for film actresses, fashion salons played a significant role in conveying the Western style of dress. They influenced the collective representation of a generation through the representation of film actresses. However, the popularity of the “modern woman” turned out to be temporary in society, which was increasingly subjected to authoritarian policies in the shadow of European fascism. After 1938, the film industry was transformed; film directors and actors or actresses of Jewish origin were forbidden to continue their profession. Curiously, the discriminatory legislation did not touch the fashion salons, which continued to exist and started to produce traditional clothes. This paper puts these contradicting processes in context.
ES
El artículo trata sobre los discursos en la prensa panameña acerca de la condición femenina, el feminismo y el sufragismo entre 1911 y 1922. Dicho período de tiempo precedió al nacimien-to de las primeras organizaciones feministas en Panamá en 1923: el Partido Nacional Feminis-ta y la Sociedad Nacional para el Progreso de la Mujer. Característica del feminismo paname-ño fue su temprana organización, coincidiendo casi con la creación del Estado nacional y con la construcción del Canal interoceánico, así como la influencia que en él tuvo tanto los ecos del movimiento feminista internacional, como de los movimientos obreros y las revoluciones que se desarrollaban en Europa y en América. En los años referidos se oyeron las primeras voces que reclamaban un nuevo papel para la mujer en la sociedad, así como las de quienes se oponían a los cambios. Este trabajo estudia las opiniones y argumentos a favor de las reivindicaciones feministas y los contrarios a ellas, y reseña la presencia de autoras españolas y latinoamericanas en las publicaciones panameñas. En él se examinan especialmente los escritos de mujeres que contribuyeron de manera funda-mental a la redefinición de la femineidad y la construcción de un nuevo modelo de mujer.
EN
Clarissa Pinkola Estés in the book Women Who Run with the Wolves. Myths and Stories of the Wild Woman Archetype (1992) explores the relationship she sees between women and wolves. In the very beginning of her book she writes: “Wildlife and the Wild Woman are both endangered species.” To be wise, creative and powerful a modern woman has to regain her connection to nature, claims Estés. On the other hand, we know that in the European culture women have always been perceived as emotional, weak creatures closer to nature and to “wildlife” than men. To be “closer to animals in our culture is to be denigrated,” we read in Lynda Birke’s paper “Exploring the boundaries: Feminism, Animals and Science.” Following the concept of the Wild Woman I will try to cope with some paradoxes hidden in it.
EN
The interwar Polish press for female readers was creating visions of present and future woman. Journalists were showing social expectations, both traditional and modern. The former view was presenting woman as a good wife, mother, and a role-model for the future generations of Poles. Whereas the latter vision was showing female as an equal partner to a man in creating civilizational changes in the independent country. Press publications addressed to Polish women fulfilled an educative function, offering means and techniques of alleviating social tensions. Moreover, these articles were meant to create an image of a future woman, who is aware of her role in the society: private (household, social contacts) and public (work for common good).
PL
Wizje kobiety współczesnej i wyobrażenia kobiety w przyszłości powstawały w bieżącej publicystyce prasowej adresowanej do czytelniczek w Polsce międzywojennej. Wkomponowano w nie oczekiwania społeczne w ujęciu tradycyjnym i nowoczesnym. Zachowawczość wiązała się z kultywowaniem wizerunku dobrej żony i matki, wychowawczyni pokoleń Polaków i Polek. W ten sposób odwzorowano patriarchalne normy społeczne. Nowoczesność była identyfikowana z kształtowaniem obrazu kobiety jako równorzędnej partnerki mężczyzny w dziele cywilizacyjnych przemian warunków życia w niepodległym państwie. Publicystyka prasowa adresowana do Polek spełniała funkcję wychowawczą, oferując konkretne środki i techniki łagodzenia napięć społecznych. Miała też walory profetyczne, zmierzając do nakreślenia obrazu przyszłej kobiety, świadomej swojej roli w przestrzeni prywatnej (dom rodzinny, relacje przyjacielskie, kontakty towarzyskie) oraz publicznej (praca dla dobra wspólnego).
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