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At the beginning of the 11th Century, in the variegated universe that characterized the monastic religious orders with hermit tendencies, or monastic brotherhoods, and religious organizations, the choice of the habit began to take on profound implications, because it allowed people to recognize between the different communities of the sole Ecclesial body. Because of its clearly and doctrinal purpose, the problem of the garb could not be left to chance; in fact, it ended up giving rise to acrimonious quarrels between the monks, such as the chromatic controversy (black vs. white) which opposed, during the 12th Century, two French abbeys, Cluny and Citeaux, on topics not only theological, but also aesthetic. Soon it became essential to establish clear rules and policy on the choice of colour and appropriate tone to the religious lifestyle. Obviously, countless were considerations about the cut, the length of the habit, the style of the hood and, of course, the colours.
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