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EN
One of the newest works on shoemaking was written in the Swiss Musée de la Chaussure in Lausanne. The author of the work, Marquita Volken, presented her own original way to organize source materials known mainly from archaeological excavations, but also from iconographic sources and old collections. The system is intended to be used primarily by novice researchers dealing with issues of development of shoemaking in Europe. In essence, the author has achieved her goal – she presented the development of footwear from prehistory to the seventeenth century, therefore this is another attempt to summarize the existing research results. However, the publication by M. Volken, despite the bulk of work involved, especially the careful preparation of the graphic part, contains a number of controversial statements and conclusions. The author attempts to define the styles of footwear, basic pattern templates, as well as the seams and stitches. A discussion on the diversity of footwear’s names and on suggestions as to their unification is a very important part of the work. M. Volken’s suggestions are certainly interesting, but the systematization and periodization model presented by her brings a lot of doubts. In the opinion of the Author, a new method was created, combining styles and pattern templates, reflecting fashion and stylistic and cultural aspects.
EN
During the inventory-arranging works inside the western and eastern crypts under the presbytery conducted in the church of The Name of the Holy Virgin Mary in Szczuczyn, two examples of women’s eighteenth-century shoes were found. The first specimen represents a slip-on, leather shoe decorated with silk ribbons. The second one belongs to the class of footwear with a textile upper fastened with a buckle. Excellent conditions prevailing in the crypts ensured that the artefacts have been preserved in very good condition. This permitted detailed research on the raw materials used in constructing the footwear to be conducted. Textiles, leather and wood were subjected to microscopic analysis
EN
The subject of this article is description and systematization of leather artefacts collected by the expedition of the Institute of Archaeology of the Russian Academy of Sciences in the course of archaeological excavations in Smolensk in 2011–2012. The chronology includes a long period from the 11th to the 18th century. Particularly interesting was an assemblage of special funeral footwear, discovered in burials from the second half of the 17th century, to which analogies are found not in Russia but also in the territory of Poland and Belarus. The collection of leather artefacts from excavations in Smolensk illustrates well the process of development of tanner-shoemaker crafts and cultural relations with Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth and Russia.
PL
Tematem niniejszego artykułu jest opis oraz systematyzacja kolekcji wyrobów ze skóry zgromadzonej przez ekspedycję Instytutu Archeologii Rosyjskiej Akademii Nauk w trakcie badań archeologicznych w Smoleńsku, w latach 2011–2012. Ramy chronologiczne obejmują długi okres – od XI do XVIII wieku. Szczególnie interesujący okazał się zbiór specjalnego obuwia pogrzebowego, znalezionego w pochówkach z 2. połowy XVII wieku, do którego analogie spotykane są nie tylko w Rosji, lecz także na terytorium Polski i Białorusi. Kolekcja przedmiotów skórzanych z wykopalisk w Smoleńsku dobrze ilustruje proces rozwoju rzemiosł garbarskoszewskich oraz związków kulturowych z Rzeczypospolitą i Rosją.
EN
The article presents unusual in Russian cities shoes with multipiece soles found during excavations in Veliky Novgorod in a layer dated to the end of the 12th and 13th century. In the whole assemblage, five such soles have been distinguished.
PL
W artykule przedstawiono nietypowe w miastach ruskich obuwie z wieloczęściowymi podeszwami, znalezionymi w Nowogrodzie Wielkim, w warstwie z końca XII–XIII wieku. W całym zbiorze wyróżniono pięć takich spodów złożonych z kilku fragmentów.
EN
The paper investigates the factory in the context of a multinational corporation. The historical-structural background for capturing the changes in the factory is both post-socialism and the conditions of neoliberalism. Drawing on conceptualizations from critical sociology, critical approaches to neoliberalism, and new working-class studies, the author focuses on how the structural transformation of socioeconomic conditions translates into the work in the factory and what implications this has for how workers and managers experience work and their own identities. Based on ethnographic research at the Baťa shoe factory, I identify a culture of precarious responsibility, which I characterize through four dimensions: management’s disengagement from responsibility, workers’ assumption of responsibility, the imposition of economization.
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