Od národního hnutí k folklorismu: proměna lidového oděvu v Evropě v 19. a 20. století

• Authors: Eva Romankova

Title variants

EN

From National Movement to Folklorism: a transformation in folk dress in Europe in the 19th and 20th centuries

• Languages of publication: CS

Abstracts

EN

European society of the 19th and 20th centuries underwent a lot of changes which were caused by economic, social and political reasons. Due to this, European countries set their hopes on symbols of national safety which they often tried to find in the expressions of traditional folk culture. Folk dress was among the most important ones. In many European countries, the last quarter of the 18th century saw struggles to create a kind of national dress, especially in connection with the spread of Romanticism ideas. The need for national costume used to be determined by historical circumstances and the position of a particular country or ethnic group in relation to the nations surrounding them. In this way, for example, the connection of Dirndl and leather trousers in the German speaking countries, or the Norwegian bunad developed. In the sense of the Romantic opinion on the countryside, even Scottish noblemen accepted the dress coming from the Highlands in Scotland as a symbol of their political goals. In eastern- European countries, people stopped wearing folk dress on regular basis significantly later, often only in the 20th century. For this reason, regional differentness could be preserved there, which did not lead to the creation of a single type of national costume. This could not be pushed though even in the Czech lands even though the 19th and 20th centuries saw the struggles to create national dress with a strong identifying function. On the other hand, contemporary wearers and makers, while reconstructing folk garments, are more and more interested in the original local appearance and variability of folk dress.

Keywords

EN

Folk dress; revitalization; Europe; national movements; cultural heritage identity

Discipline

• ETHNOLOGY: ETHNOLOGY

• Publisher: The National Institute of Folk Culture
• Journal: Národopisná revue (Journal of Ethnology)
• Year: 2016
• Volume: 26
• Issue: 3
• Pages: 179 - 190

Contributors

author

Eva Romankova

• Národopisná revue, redakce, Národní ústav lidové kultury se sídlem ve Strážnici, Zámek 672, 696 62 Strážnice, Czech Republic