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EN
Theoretical background: The use of social media is increasing rapidly. The total number of users has surpassed more than 500 million worldwide. Social media communication is growing faster than any other form of communication. Websites such as Facebook, Instagram, YouTube and Snapchat are examples of the social media sites that are popular among all level of consumers, but especially among young consumers. Social media are definitely influencing customer behaviour. Social media has changed the way consumers think, and companies have changed their vision to reflect how it will affect their buying decision process. This article presents the characteristics of young consumers in a virtual environment.Purpose of the article: The main goal of the article is to identify the role of social media used by fashion brands at every stage of the consumer buying decision process. The authors investigated the impact of social media on changing customer behaviour. The existing literature currently lacks a comprehensive conceptual framework to explain how social media could change consumer behaviour. Only a few studies have been conducted so far, but they have focused on the older generation, not on the youngest consumer. Nowadays, the young consumer constitutes an important but, at the same time, separate part of the market. The authors highlight the most important distinctive features of teenagers representing the so-called Generation Z.Research methods: The authors used qualitative analysis; more specifically, the technique of focus group interview. Three interviews were conducted, each consisting of eight students from Poznań universities. The main goal of this research was to identify the role of social media used by fashion brands at every stage of the consumer buying decision process.Main findings: The influence of social media on buying behaviour can be observed for fashion products. Social media play an important role in the decision-making process of young consumers. Social media have changed customer behaviour. They are an invaluable source of information and recommendations for products for young consumers. Furthermore, social media generate new needs and cause unscheduled purchases, mainly impulse purchases – for example, inflenced by a discount or an interesting presentation of the product. In addition, social media are a place for expressing opinions and sharing shopping experiences for young consumers. This knowledge about young consumers’ behaviour and attitudes to the use of social media in the decision buying process of fashion brands can be very valuable advice for companies to help them adjust tools of social media communications to their target group.
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Youth and the Cult of Youth?

88%
EN
This text deals with one of the neglected topics of contemporary social pedagogy which extends to developmental psychology and sociology. This topic is so-called cult of youth which is often mentioned in the academic literature, but has not been precisely conceptualized. This text was therefore focused on the definition of basic category, i.e. youth, and then discussed the relationship to the cult of youth and the individual elements that helps to form it. The cult of youth is associated with so called youth culture, which has been spread and produced by global media. The influence of the media has been already evident from the 60’s of the 20th century, when we often talk about American cultural hegemony which presents within its production the popular culture and youthful lifestyle, which is then presented in magazines, music media, fashion industry, etc. For contemporary capitalist society the concept of the cult of youth is a useful concept as only successful, young and efficient individuals can consume new and new products (as well as use the services) typical for this still-rising imaginary phase of human life. Therefore the cult of youth is the domain of successful people who do not want to lose their success. Only socially successful can try to be “forever young”.
EN
Research background: Since crises magnify differences and bring both challenges and opportunities, the current complex global setting makes the mutual interconnection a fundamental platform meant  to create confidence and also to lead to a unique strategic advantage. Due to its inherent particularities, the fashion industry is a relevant sphere for performing a categorial reflective triangulation study about the understanding and employment of creating shared values (CSV) within the EU framework. Purpose of the article: The purpose of the article is to research, analyze and critically highlight how CSV is approached by archetypical fashion industry businesses from all three fundamental segments (luxury, fast, slow) and how this fits into the EU law framework. Methods: A categorial reflective triangulation study in four steps is performed while using a content analysis, empirical field observation, qualitative manual Delphi approach and critical juxtaposition with glossing and Socratic questioning. Firstly, 30 archetypical fashion industry businesses are identified and split into luxury, slow and fast fashion segments. Secondly, for each business, research is done on how it identifies its CSVs. Thirdly, the verification of these CSVs is performed in order to confirm or reject the genuineness. Fourthly, the results are projected into the EU framework. Findings & value added: Based on the performed study and its critical analysis, there appear extremely interesting dynamics in the CSV perception and strategies by luxury, slow and fast fashion businesses with a clear overlap in the EU sphere. In particular, fashion businesses from all three segments take into consideration sustainability and the fight against waste, but each segment has a different pro-CSV strategy to do so, and it is critical to contemplate which of these three strategies will become sustainable.
EN
In times of rapid technological development, access to information is greater and, at the same time, other than generally accepted aspects determine consumer decisions. Not only basic factors such as price, store brand and product availability are taken into account. Purchasing decisions are increasingly influenced by the ecological aspect, related to ethical production, the making of the product from sustainable materials, the pressure that accompanies a onetime purchase opportunity or the influence of people on social media. Therefore, the aim of this article is to identify the determinants of purchasing decisions of Generation Z representatives in relation to the fashion industry. A quantitative method was used in the research process. A survey was conducted using the CAWI (Computer Assisted Web Interview) technique. The questionnaire was completed by 508 respondents from Generation Z (people born after 1995) and 95 representatives of other generations. The procedure was designed to test whether the age of consumers influences their determinants of purchase decisions. Multivariate tables were used during the analysis. The non-parametric Mann-Whitney U test was used to indicate differences between age groups.
PL
W dobie szybkiego rozwoju technologicznego dostęp do informacji jest większy i jednocześnie inne niż ogólnie przyjęte aspekty determinują decyzje konsumentów. Brane pod uwagę są nie tylko podstawowe czynniki, takie jak cena, marka sklepu czy dostępność produktów. Na decyzje zakupowe wpływa coraz częściej aspekt ekologiczny, związany z etyczną produkcją, wykonanie produktu z trwałych materiałów, presja towarzysząca jednorazowej okazji zakupowej bądź wpływ osób z mediów społecznościowych. Dlatego celem niniejszego artykułu jest identyfikacja determinant decyzji zakupowych przedstawicieli pokolenia Z w odniesieniu do branży modowej. W procesie badawczym zastosowano metodę ilościową. Przeprowadzono badania ankietowe techniką CAWI. Kwestionariusz wypełniło 508 respondentów z pokolenia Z (osób urodzonych po 1995 roku) oraz 95 przedstawicieli innych pokoleń. Zabieg ten miał na celu określenie relacji pomiędzy wiekiem konsumentów a determinantami decyzji zakupowych. Podczas analizy użyto tabel wielodzielcznych. W celu wskazania różnic między grupami wiekowymi posłużono się nieparametrycznym testem U Manna-Whitneya.
EN
The COP24 climate summit organized in Katowice in December 2018 has contributed to the debate on climate change. Noteworthy is the fact that one of the industries having taken up the conversation and activities is the fashion industry. The adoption of the Fashion Industry Charter for Climate Action under COP24 initiated the process of orchestrating the fashion sector around the idea of climate protection. Development and further substantiation of the Charter's goals will take place inside six working groups, the first meeting of which will be convened by UN Climate Change in early 2019. The implementation of increasingly stringent requirements regarding environmental management conditions for industry represents a great financial, organizational and logistical challenge for entrepreneurs. On the other hand, proper planning and the process of adapting a company’s operations to new legal, technical and technological conditions to meet environmental protection requirements may be a good chance to gain or increase competitive advantage, not only on a local or regional level, but also frequently on the global market. Adjustment of production line operation parameters to new regulations regarding environmental protection requires significant improvement of existing technology or, in many cases, complete replacement. The updated operation can, in turn, benefit from protection of various intellectual property rights. The above challenges, applicable to any business, have the potential to affect significantly the fashion industry in particular. Here, too, the intersection of environment protection regulatory frameworks and the intellectual property protection system turns out to be much stronger than one might expect. Knowledge by global brands of intellectual property rights does not ensure international success. Rather, it results from the ability to apply the acquired knowledge by linking the law with the psychology of sales and marketing, i.e. through IP strategies. There is a multitude of such strategies and many increasingly address the contemporary climate challenges.
PL
Szczyt klimatyczny COP24 zorganizowany w Katowicach w grudniu 2018 r. stał się przyczynkiem do debaty nad zmianami klimatycznymi. Jako godne odnotowania należy przyjąć to, że jedną z branż, które podjęły rozmowę i działania jest branża modowa. Przyjęcie Karty Działań Przemysłu Modowego na rzecz Klimatu w ramach COP24 zapoczątkowało proces integrowania się sektora modowego wokół idei ochrony klimatu. Rozwinięcie i dalsza konkretyzacja celów Karty nastąpi w pracach 6 grup roboczych, a pierwsze spotkanie grup roboczych zostanie zwołane przez UN Climate Change na początku 2019 r. Realizacja coraz bardziej rygorystycznych wymagań dotyczących warunków korzystania ze środowiska przez przemysł stanowi dla przedsiębiorców duże wyzwanie finansowe, organizacyjne i logistyczne. Z drugiej strony, prawidłowe zaplanowanie i przeprowadzenie procesu dostosowania funkcjonowania przedsiębiorstwa do nowych uwarunkowań prawnych, technicznych i technologicznych w celu sprostania wymaganiom ochrony środowiska, może okazać się dużą szansą na uzyskanie lub zwiększenie przewagi konkurencyjnej, nie tylko na lokalnym, czy regionalnym, ale często również na światowym rynku. Dostosowanie parametrów funkcjonowania linii produkcyjnej do nowych regulacji dotyczących ochrony środowiska wymaga znacznego ulepszenia istniejącej, a w wielu przypadkach pozyskania całkowicie nowej technologii. Tę z kolei chronić mogą różne prawa własności intelektualnej. Powyższe wyzwania dotykają w coraz większym stopniu także przemysłu modowego. Również w tej branży styk regulacji dotyczących ochrony środowiska z systemem ochrony własności intelektualnej okazuje się znacznie ściślejszy, niż mogłoby się z pozoru wydawać. Znajomość prawa własności intelektualnej przez światowe marki nie zapewnia międzynarodowego sukcesu. Wynika on raczej z umiejętności stosowania nabytej wiedzy w powiązaniu prawa z psychologią sprzedaży i marketingu, czyli tzw. strategii IP. Strategie są liczne, bardzo zróżnicowane i w coraz większym stopniu wychodzą naprzeciw współczesnym wyzwaniom klimatycznym.
EN
The article presents the results of research on the Polish consumers’ behavior in the e-commerce fashion industry. The authors pay attention to Internet sources of information about the fashion industry which consumers prefer to use and e-commerce domain knowledge specifically. Direct research focused on online and offline consumers’ attitudes towards shopping on the Internet, and encouraging and discouraging factors of online purchasing. This study presents the terms and conditions of the online purchasing process which includes important transactional aspects such as electronic equipment, payment methods and forms of delivery. The aim of the qualitative research was to present the image and future of clothing e-stores, based on the results of individual in-depth interviews.
PL
W artykule zaprezentowano wyniki badań własnych dotyczących zachowań polskich konsumentów na rynku e-commerce w branży odzieżowej. Zwrócono zwłaszcza uwagę na internetowe źródła informacji o branży odzieżowej, z których korzystają konsumenci, i znajomość serwisów w handlu elektronicznym. Przedmiotem zainteresowania w badaniach bezpośrednich były postawy wobec zakupów online osób kupujących i niekupujących za pośrednictwem Internetu, czynniki motywujące i zniechęcające do zakupu w sieci. Przedstawiono warunki realizacji transakcji e-zakupu, na które składają się wyposażenie konsumentów w sprzęt elektroniczny, formy płatności i dostawy zakupionego towaru. Na podstawie badań jakościowych oceniono wizerunek odzieżowych sklepów internetowych i przedstawiono przewidywania przyszłych zdarzeń związanych z ich rozwojem.
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Мир в зеркале Словаря моды

51%
EN
The article discusses the language of vestimentary fashion, which has recently become an object of interest for linguists studying the language and discourse of texts about fashion. The author offers a linguistic and cultural analysis of the fashion lexicon in contrast to previous linguistic studies.The purpose of the study was to reconstruct a certain fragment of the world picture of the Fashion Dictionary, which is an appendix to the Electronic Encyclopaedia of Fashion. The object of research is a group of words denoting fashion institutions. As a result of the study, differential features were identified by which the structure of the fashion business can be described. On the basis of the selected features, the author comes to the conclusion that the Fashion Dictionary reflects the social differentiation of society.
RU
В статье рассматривается вопрос о языке вестиментарной моды, ставшей сравнительно недавно объектом интереса лингвистов, занимающихся языком и дискурсом текстов о моде. Автор, в отличие от предыдущих лингвистических исследований, предлагает лингвокультурологический анализ лексикона моды. Цель исследования заключается в реконструкции определенного фрагмента картины мира, отраженного в Словаре моды, являющегося приложением к Электронной энциклопедии моды. Объектом исследования является группа слов со значением институтов моды. В результате исследования были выделены дифференциальные признаки, посредством которых можно описать устройство модного бизнеса. Автор на основе выделенных признаков приходит к выводу, что Словарь моды отражает социальную дифференциацию общества.
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