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Wall-sided glaciers

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EN
In the literature devoted to geomorphology and glaciology not much has been written about wall-sided glaciers, thanks to which high mountains have their specific landscape character. It is also difficult to find in the literature of the subject a classification of the wallsided glacier forms which would take into account the richness and variety of this phenomenon. After many years of experience in almost all highest mountains of Asia, South America and Europe, the authors decided to fill this gap and therefore to provoke a discussion among the geomorphologists.
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EN
The entire geographical literature, starting with school textbooks, presents the Himalayas as a classical model of an impermeable orographic barrier, halting the masses of monsoon air and causing aridity of the Tibetan landscapes. Despite of that, however, the author, during his trips to Western and, particularly, to Central Tibet, organised exactly during the summer monsoon, always found the southern regions of these provinces flooded to a large extent with water. It is also puzzling that catastrophic floods occurring in China (connected with the high water in rivers originating in Tibet) are correlated in time with the period of the summer monsoon in the Himalayas.
PL
Góry wysokie do niedawna kojarzyły się z potęgą natury oraz siłą i odwagą wspinacza do przełamywania barier. Dziś góry wysokie stały się dużo bardziej dostępne, komercyjne i popularne. Bez względu na charakter gór oraz stopień trudności trasy, nieodzowna jest znajomość charakterystyki klimatu wysokogórskiego oraz zagrożeń i wynikającego z nich odpowiedniego przygotowania do wyprawy. Należy wiedzieć, na jakie warunki atmosferyczne na dużych wysokościach jest narażony organizm oraz jakie reakcje mogą w skutek nich wystąpić i jak im przeciwdziałać. Niezbędna jest umiejętność przeprowadzenia prawidłowego procesu aklimatyzacji oraz odpowiednie przygotowanie pod kątem treningu przygotowawczego, zarówno fizycznego, jak i mentalnego oraz poprawnego wyposażenia sprzętowego. Nie bez znaczenia pozostają indywidualne predyspozycje organizmu pomagające w sprawnym poruszaniu się na dużych wysokościach. Stopniowe zdobywanie coraz wyższych szczytów pozwala poznać własny organizm i umożliwia zdobycie cennego doświadczenia.
EN
The high mountains have been associated with the power of nature and the strength and courage of a climber to overcome these barriers. Nowadays, high mountains became available, commercial and more popular. Despite the mountains character and difficulty of the route, it is essential to know the high mountains climate, dangers and know how to properly prepare for such expedition. It is important to be aware of atmospheric conditions at high altitudes and specific reaction which may occur and how to counteract them. It is necessary to conduct a proper acclimatization process, as well as to prepare ourselves by physical and mental training, as well as by required equipment. Individual predispositions of the organism are useful for effective moving at high altitude. Gradual picks gaining allows to meet one’s body and gain valuable experience.
EN
This article outlines the negative impact on the environment of the Kilimanjaro Mountain which is a result of commercial approach to mountaineering and change of the climber’s profile. Kilimanjaro, which was called “trampled mountain” in the years 1977–2007, has been visited by 627,974 tourists. The National Park of Kilimanjaro pocketed 25.7 millions USD from admission fees in 2006 only. Officials of the Park are more interested in the commercial aspect than the environmental one. A significant increase in the admission charges is linked with increasing the estimates of number of tourists that the Mountain can bear, which is supported by scientific research. The article presents numbers of tourists in the years1977–2007 shown graphically and compared with data for other mountains from the Seven Summits list.
EN
The history of Polish Himalayan mountaineering, i.e. all ascended summits, new routes and records, is extremely rich and fascinating. It is impossible to describe all of this on just a few pages, which is why the aim of my paper is to describe the most outstanding expeditions, those that completely changed our thinking about Himalayan mountaineering and showed that we can deceive not only our bodies but also our subconscious. The first attempts to ascend an eight-thousander were made as early as in the 1920s; unfortunately, they all failed. Owing to the harsh conditions in the mountains, the first successful ascent of an eight-thousander did not take place until 1950, when Annapurna was ascended. The first Polish expedition was organised in 1939. Unfortunately, the Second World War and the political situation in Poland prevented Polish climbers from making further attempts for many years. The political situation in the country made it impossible for Poles to travel abroad. But Himalayan mountaineering at the time was developing very rapidly. The Poles, hungry for success, wanted to go down in history. Given the fact that all eight-thousanders had already been ascended, the Poles began a new chapter — winter Himalayan mountaineering, challenging Edmund Hillary’s assertion that in winter no form of life had a chance to survive over 7000 metres above sea level. In my paper I focus on presenting the most remarkable achievements. I describe the Golden Age of Polish Himalayan mountaineering, like the first winter ascent of Everest or Krzysztof Wielicki’s extraordinary one-day ascent of Broad Peak. There is also room for expeditions featuring Jerzy Kukuczka, an icon of Himalayan mountaineering. Climbing two eight-thousanders in one winter season and establishing a new route on K2 are still unbeaten feats. A part of my paper is devoted to women. The first all-female expeditions headed by Wanda Rutkiewicz were also a Polish domain. The number of great achievements in the mountains are truly numerous. Each of them in described in the paper, as is the death of the greatest Himalayan climbers, which led to a crisis and revisions. The paper ends with a fragment concerning an attempt to revive Polish Himalayan mountaineering.
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