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EN
The aim of this contribution is to answer the question of why in Jardin maures [Moorish Gardens], a collection of short stories written by a French writer and painter of the colonial era, Aline Réveillaud de Lens (1881-1925), the imaginary of the garden intervenes with that of the crisis. Are we simply dealing with the crisis of the garden understood as an Edenic place or are we faced in those short stories with other crises that the writer evokes by using this incongruous union of the garden and the crisis? To answer these questions, we have divided our paper into three parts. The first will briefly introduce the writer and the collection. The second will show that the crisis of the garden may denounce some crises of Muslim society and the third part will describe the crisis of the garden as the crisis of a certain dream.
FR
Le but de cette contribution est de répondre à la question de savoir pourquoi dans les Jardins maures, cycle de nouvelles de l’écrivaine et peintre française de l’époque coloniale, Aline Réveillaud de Lens (1881-1925), l’imaginaire du jardin s’unit à celui de la crise. Avons-nous affaire tout simplement à la crise du jardin compris comme un espace paradisiaque ou s’agit-t-il d’autres crises encore que l’écrivaine évoque en se servant de cette union incongrue du jardin et de la crise ? Pour répondre à ces questions, nous avons divisé notre article en trois parties. La première présentera brièvement l’écrivaine et le cycle. La deuxième montrera que le jardin en crise peut cacher des crises propres à la société musulmane et la troisième décrira le jardin en crise comme la crise d’un certain rêve.
EN
The present paper analyzes the relationship between the caricature and the women’s fashion of the second half of the 19th century. The period was favorable for fashion caricature, because, while reflecting the political, economic and social transformations of the time, the clothing trends endorsed at the time by fashion magazines were based on the exaggeration and distortion that we identify among the weapons of humorists. The first part of the paper focuses on the graphical representation of fashion, in particular of the crinoline, and aims to discover the messages hidden in those illustrations. The second part analyzes the motif of the fashion and the clothing in the Bertall’s satirical text, Comédie de notre temps, and tries to define the image of the woman at that time and her role in the French bourgeois society.
FR
L’article analyse la relation entre la caricature et la mode à partir de quelques exemples de la satire visuelle et textuelle de la seconde moitié du XIXe siècle. La période est propice à la caricature de mode car, tout en reflétant les transformations politiques, économiques et sociales du temps, les tendances vestimentaires prônées à l'époque par les périodiques de mode reposent sur l'exagération et la déformation, qualités qui sont aussi les armes des humoristes. La première partie examine la représentation graphique du costume féminin, avant tout celle de la crinoline-cage, et les significations véhiculées par ces images railleuses. La seconde se concentre sur les fragments de La Comédie de notre temps (1874-1876) de Bertall, consacrés à la mode et au vêtement, et cherche à définir l'image de la femme et sa place dans la société bourgeoise en pleine mutation.
EN
This article aims to show the relationship between the woman in the social context of nineteenth-century France and the female portrait presented in symbolist poetry. Allegiances between the philosophical influence of Schopenhauer and Baudelaire, the woman of the theatre as well as the femme fatale and the mermaid, her mythological prototype, are proven. The presented portrait is based on woman’s primal relationship with nature and with artificiality depending on the development in society; the main elements are the dependence of the woman on the man and their mutual manipulation.
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