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XX
Report on the conference "Taste and history. Methodology, sources, perspectives ", Toruń, 28-30 September 2010.
EN
Leguminous plants were a crucially important element in the Mediterranean diet, and, as such, these plants were second only to cereals. It is also important to note that according to medical writings preserved from antiquity and the early Byzantine period they were considered to be an accessible source of substances which could be applied in therapeutics. One of the most commonly mentioned legumes was the chickpea. The source material demonstrates that the medicinal properties of the chickpea and its therapeutic use were discussed by Greek physicians as early as in the fourth century BC. It seems that the plant was a readily accessible medicament and thus used in therapy also by those who could not afford costly medicines. The authors argue, however, that the medical theory concerning its role in therapeutics evolved into a fully developed form only in the first century AD (thanks to Dioscorides) and was not modified by Galen. The doctrine of these two physicians became part of the medical encyclopaedias of the early Byzantine period. The presented material also illustrates the fact that a significant number of medicinal Recipes which involved using the chickpea were formulated between the second century BC and the second century AD. Byzantine physicians avidly used these formulas in their practice, but failed to develop them in a significantly innovative way. The surviving medical writings make it possible to conclude that the chickpea was believed to be a highly effective medicine and as such worthy of cultivation, which only testifies to the general popularity of the plant. Medical writings may serve as a proof that the chickpea remained a key element in the Mediterranean diet throughout the period from the fourth century BC to the seventh century AD. The analysed material demonstrates the use of the same basic varieties of the erebinthos throughout the period, even though some local variants were also identified. The consistency of the data also suggests that the scale and methods of cultivation of this plant remained unchanged. The culinary uses of the chickpea must also have been the same throughout the period, given that the writers discussed similar uses of the plant as a foodstuff.
EN
The article presents the research results on the share of expenditure on food in the household budget of Polish and Lithuanian soldiers in the mid-seventeenth century. The author adopted a hypothetical menu, compliant with today’s energy standards and including basic foodstuffs providing an adequate amount of carbohydrates, proteins and fats, which were popular at that time also among the poorer strata of the Polish society. According to estimates, its cost would amount to about 40 per cent of the pay of a private serving in the infantry. In the case of a commander taking a larger part of the pay to feed his subordinates, e.g. 50 per cent, it could have meant that the surplus was used to support the operation of the units at the back.
PL
W artykule przedstawiono wyniki badań dotyczących udziału wydatków na żywność w budżecie domowym żołnierzy polskich i litewskich w połowie XVII w. Przyjęto hipotetyczny jadłospis zgodny z dzisiejszymi normami energetycznymi i uwzględniający podstawowe produkty spożywcze dostarczające odpowiednią ilość węglowodanów, białka i tłuszczów, które były wówczas popularne również wśród uboższych warstw społeczeństwa Rzeczypospolitej. Z szacunkowych obliczeń wynika, że jego koszt wyniósłby ok. 40% żołdu szeregowego wojskowego służącego w piechocie. W przypadku pobierania przez dowódcę większej części żołdu na wyżywienie swoich podwładnych, np. 50%, świadczyłoby to o możliwości utrzymywania z nadwyżki osób wspomagających działanie oddziału od zaplecza.
EN
The present article examines the beginning of the recipe for hare meat (leporis vero si novellae […]) preserved in Chapter 13 of the dietetic treatise De observatione ciborum written in the first half of the 6th cent. by the Byzantine physician Anthimus. In the initial part of the study, the author briefly discusses key events in the doctor’s life, explaining the circumstances which brought him to the royal court of the Frankish ruler, Theuderic. Next, the author analyses Anthimus’ competence in the field of dietetics and proves that he composed his treatise in line with ancient and Byzantine materia medica. The key part of the article scrutinises the most popular methods of preparing hare meat according to ancient gastronomical literature (Ἡδυπάθεια by Archestratus of Gela, De re coquinaria) and compares them with Anthimus’ recommendations. This allows the author to reconstruct the culinary techniques that Anthimus most probably proposed be applied in the preparation of hare meat. The author concludes that Anthimus’ treatise is a clear example of the practical application of both dietetics and materia medica in culinary practices performed in the physician’s lifetime.
EN
The present study scrutinizes the initial part of the recipe considering culinary preparation of hare meat (reading: „Leporis vero si novellae…”), from a Byzantine medical treatise De observatione ciborum by Anthimus (5th/6th c. AD). The first part of the article proves that the work was written in accordance with the ancient materia medica. The author emphasises the specific character of the said work, as it discusses foodstuffs typical for non-Mediterranean peoples. Moreover, she highlights that since treatise was dedicated to Theuderic, the ruler of the Franks it contains mainly information on food served at the royal court. As an example showing Theuderic's high social status a recipe for hare meat is given. In the main part of the study the author analyses the initial passage of the said formula. On the basis of Anthimus' treatise as well as medical (works by Galen [2nd/3rd c. AD], Oribasius [4th c. AD], Aetius of Amida [6th c. AD]) and culinary (a poem by Archestratos of Gela [4th c. BC], De re coquinaria [4th c. AD]) sources she proposes a reconstruction of culinary technology which might have been recommended by Anthimus in preparing the examined dish. The comparative analysis of the above source material confirms Anthimus’ competences in the field of dietetics as well as a close connection between ancient/Byzantine medicine and culinary art. Furthermore, it proves that medical treatises are useful in the research on the history of everyday life.
PL
Artykuł poświęcony jest analizie początkowego fragmentu receptury na potrawę z zająca („Leporis vero si novellae…”) zachowanej w bizantyńskim traktacie medycznym De observatione ciborum autorstwa Antimusa (V/VI w. n.e.). We wstępie autorka dowodzi, że dzieło to zostało napisane zgodnie z antyczną tradycją medyczną. Wskazuje też na jego specyfikę zaznaczając, że dotyczy ono pożywienia typowego ludów spoza obszaru basenu Morza Śródziemnego. Nadto zaznacza, że skoro traktat został dedykowany władcy Franków, Teuderykowi, zawiera on przede wszystkim dane na temat diety wyższych warstw społecznych. Jako przykład odzwierciedlający wysoki status społeczny Teuderyka autorka przytacza przepis na danie z zająca. Zasadnicza część studium obejmuje analizę początkowej części wspomnianej receptury. Autorka proponuje rekonstrukcję technologii kulinarnej, która mogła być stosowana podczas przygotowywania mięsa młodego zająca w oparciu o dane zawarte w dziele Antimusa oraz literaturze źródłowej z zakresu ars medica (pisma Galena [II/III w. n.e.], Orybazjusza [IV w. n.e.] i Aecjusza z Amidy [VI w. n.e.]) oraz ars coquinaria (praca Archestratosa z Geli [IV w. p.n.e.], traktat De re coquinaria [IV w. n.e.]). Analiza porównawcza materiału źródłowego wskazuje na kompetencje Antimusa w zakresie dietetyki, a także uwypukla zależność antycznej/bizantyńskiej medycyny i sztuki kulinarnej. Dodatkowo tekst ukazuje wartość traktatów medycznych w badaniach nad historią życia codziennego.
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