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PL
In the 8th century in Byzantine, Arabic and Chinese workshops weavers produced weft-faced compound twill silks (samits). These textiles were ornamented by confronted animals surrounded by pearls roundels. Usually, a rosette motive was placed between medallions. This design is a compilation of Sasanian (animals decorated with floating ribbons, pearl roundels) and Chinese patterns (symmetricalness, rosettes, ‘scrolled leaves’ motive). Its emergence took place in Central Asia. Some scholars think that it happened in Sogdiana, but the oldest samples of textiles made in the new tradition were found in Astana cemetery in Turfan Oasis (East Turkestan). Moreover, these textiles were warp-faced compound tabby – a weave technique characteristic of Chinese workshops. At first their composition was more Chinese than Sasanian, but successive Persian motives were more common. The most popular design was pearl roundels containing a confronted Pegasus standing on “a scrolled, pointed leaves in profile”. There is a large possibility that textiles found in Astana were produced locally in East Turkestan, probably in Turfan Oasis, which is located on the north branch of Silk Road. It was inhabited by a local community, but also by Sogdian and Chinese merchants. This cooperation could have led to syncretism in art and technical changes.
PL
W Boże Narodzenie roku 811 Michał I Rangabeusz dokonał w Hagii Sofii uroczystej koronacji swojego najstarszego syna, Teofilakta. Z tej okazji złożył w konstantynopolitańskiej katedrze liczne drogocenne dary, wśród których - obok złotych naczyń wysadzanych szlachetnymi kamieniami - znalazł się komplet czterech zasłon przetykanych złotem i purpurą. Ukazano na nich święte obrazy. Tkaniny te nie przetrwały do naszych czasów i są znanej jedynie dzięki wzmiance w Kronice Teofanesa Wyznawcy. Możemy jednak rekonstruować ich wygląd na podstawie zachowanych przykładów z epoki. Zwyczaj ofiarowywania do kościołów jedwabnych tkanin zdobionych motywami figuratywnymi, także religijnymi potwierdzają wzmianki w Liber pontificalis na temat darów ofiarowywanych przez papieży Hadriana I (772-795), Leona III (795-816), Paschalisa I (817-824), Grzegorza IV (827-844) i Leona IV (847-855) do świątyń Rzymu i Rawenny. Wymieniane w tekście tkaniny są opisywane zarówno jako zdobione motywami ornamentalnymi (gryfy, krzyże), jak i scenami zaczerpniętymi z Ewangelii (Zwiastowanie, Boże Narodzenie, Wjazd do Jerozolimy, Pasja, Wniebowstąpienie, Zesłanie Ducha Świętego) oraz podobiznami Chrystusa i świętych. Powtarzający się w opisach zwrot chrisoclabum (lub chrisoclavum) wydaje się być używany w stosunku do kompozycji umieszczanych w ornamentalnych clipeusach, a być może także szczególnie cennych, haftowanych lub przędzonych złotem i purpurą aplikacji naszywanych na tkaniny. Wolfgang F. Volbach już przed siedemdziesięciu pięciu laty podjął próbę identyfikacji dwóch fragmentów jedwabnego samitu ze scenami Zwiastowania i Bożego Narodzenia w zbiorach watykańskiego Museo Sacro, początkowo uchodzących za szóstowieczne wyroby aleksandryjskie, z papieskimi darami z przełomu VIII i IX w. Jego hipoteza, przyjęta przez większość badaczy, jest w ostatnich latach podważana przez Annę Muthesius, która uznała obie tkaniny za powstałe już po zakończeniu ikonoklazmu (843 r.). Dlatego konieczna stała się ponowna analiza i interpretacja obu scen w świetle współczesnej wiedzy na temat sztuki bizantyńskiej VIII i IX stuleci.
EN
On Christmas of the year 811, Emperor Michael I Rhangabe solemnly crowned his elder son Theophylact in the church of Hagia Sophia. On this occasion, he offered to the cathedral numerous precious gifts, among which was a set of four curtains embroidered with gold and purple. Sacred images were depicted on them. These textiles did not survive to our times, and are known to us only thanks to the short record in the Theophanes’ Chronicle. However, it is possible to reconstruct their form on the basis of preserved contemporary examples. The practice of donating silks decorated with figural religious motifs to churches is confirmed by the Book of Pontiffs. The source mentions gifts given by popes Hadrian I (772–795), Leo III (795–816), Paschal I (817–824), Gregory IV (827–844) and Leo IV (847–855) to shrines in Rome and Ravenna. The textiles mentioned by the source include both those decorated with ornamental motifs (griffins, crosses) and those adorned with evangelical scenes (Annunciation, Nativity, Entry into Jerusalem, Passion, Ascension, Descent of the Holy Spirit) and images of Christ and saints. The word chrisoclabum (or chrisoclavum), which is repeated in written sources, seems to relate to compositions placed inside medallions, and perhaps also to exceptionally precious appliqués of gold and purple fastened to the textile background.  Already 75 years ago, Wolfgang F. Volbach sought to associate two pieces of silk samits with the Annunciation and Nativity scenes (kept at the Vatican Museo Sacro; initially dated to the 6th c.) with papal gifts from the turn of 8th and 9th c. His hypothesis, accepted by most scholars, has recently been disputed by Anna Muthesius, who suggests a later date for both silks (after 843). Due to this fact, it seems necessary to offer a new analysis and interpretation of both textiles that will rely on the current body of knowledge about the Byzantine art of 8th and 9th c.
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